Sotheby's Autumn auctions

Highlights from the upcoming Autumn auctions reveal extraordinary jewels and remarkable gemstones.

Next week Sotheby’s will present a set of extraordinary jewels from an important Asian American collection that will be auctioned in both New York and Geneva.

A collection assembled by a prominent lady, who demonstrated her fondness for signed jewellery – especially Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston.

The result is an ensemble of pieces – of more classic and formal style on one side, and more fashion-oriented pieces she used to wear on a daily basis.

The leading piece of the collection is an extraordinary Art Deco sapphire and diamond bracelet, created by Cartier in 1927. The bracelet features a sensational Burmese sapphire weighing 47.07 carats, flanked by two stunning pear-shaped white diamonds weighing 9.27 and 8.60 carats respectively.

Sapphire and diamond bracelet Cartier 1927 Sotheby's — Art Deco Sapphire and diamond bracelet, Cartier, 1927. Sotheby’s

The bracelet’s central gem is quite striking. Of Royal Blue colour (the most coveted), it presents extraordinary clarity and a perfect cabochon shape. According to Sotheby’s experts, the choice of this shape for the sapphire was a clear designer’s choice, “one which could be regarded as decadent, considering the scarcity of gemstones of this size and quality”.

The bracelet was made in 1927, a time when Cartier’s exploration of Eastern motifs was in full flower. The cabochon sapphire, along with the pear-shaped diamonds cut is the Moghul style, are subtle expressions of Cartier’s embrace of the so-called exotic, while the step-cut diamond and sapphire links of the bracelet reflect the linearity that formed the bedrock of Art Deco design.

This important collection does not only include fine jewels, but also exquisite Chinese works of art, that will be auctioned at Sotheby’s New York during the Asia Week.

Furthermore, this collection will be divided between Sotheby’s sale of Fine Jewels in New York on 25 September and the Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels in Geneva, next 11 and 13 November.

This wonderful collection of jewels and gemstones was clearly assembled with both passion and joy, and we know that they were treasured and often worn by their owner. The Cartier Art Deco bracelet is stunning in its design; its central stone is a sensational Burmese sapphire of the highest quality and colour. Timeless pieces such as these are sure to have global appeal.
David Bennet, Worldwide Chairman of Sotheby’s Jewellery Division

Collectors will find another timeless jewel in this collection, an Art Deco sapphire and diamond brooch from 1937, signed once again by Cartier.

Art Deco Sapphire and Diamond Brooch-clip, Cartier, 1937. Sotheby’s

The charm of this brooch lies not only in the finest quality craftsmanship for which Cartier is so well-known but also in the fact that it illustrates the Maison’s design evolution – the research for cleaner lines and more architectural shapes suited to the machine age, that had motifs such as the fan to take on an increasingly abstract geometry.

In Geneva, and signed by Van Cleef & Arpels and by Cartier:

Ruby and Diamond Brooch and Earrings, 'Serti Mystérieux', Van Cleef & Arpels — Ruby and Diamond Brooch and Earrings, ‘Serti Mystérieux’, Van Cleef & Arpels. Sotheby’s

Sapphire and diamond ring, Cartier and Diamond Ring, Cartier — Sapphire and diamond ring, Cartier. Set with a 17.48-carat Burmese sapphire. Diamond Ring, Cartier. Set with an 11.20-carat D colour diamond. Sotheby’s

From important, classic jewels to lighter, whimsical pieces, characterised by coloured stones – jewels to be enjoyed.

This selection will be at auction at the Fine Jewels sale in New York, next 25 September, and is led by a gem-set and diamond suite by Cartier which includes a necklace suspending a 72.70-carat pear-shaped aquamarine, a 39-carat aquamarine ring and pair of multicoloured stone earrings.