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November 1932. Miss Chanel presented her first High Jewellery collection, simply entitled “Bijoux de Diamants” at her mansion in the Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris.

Fascinated by the brilliance and purity of the diamond, of which she wrote “its density represents the greatest value for the smallest size”, she created a whole series of innovative and sumptuous jewels.

To celebrate the 80th anniversary of “Bijoux de Diamants”, CHANEL created an exceptional collection of 80 High Jewellery pieces which travelled the world throughout 2012. A combination of reproduced and reinterpreted pieces, today’s collection evokes the theme of art deco in its ribbons, bands, black and white tones, or delicate threads of diamond.

Franges – Necklace created by Mademoiselle Chanel in 1932 for the “Bijoux et Diamants” collection. Photo Robert Bresson.

This unique collection unveiled in five episodes, each revealing a different theme of the collection.

 

 

COMÈTE

I wanted to cover women in constellations! Stars! Stars of all sizes… Gabrielle Chanel

 

Shooting star necklace

The Shooting Star Necklace is a new interpretation of the original Comète Necklace. This piece, made of a cascade of chains formed from baguette-cut diamonds, is held together by a large diamond star that can be freely positioned on the shoulder or bust. It symbolises the quest for freedom that was so dear to Mademoiselle Chanel.

The original Shooting Star Necklace designed by Mlle Chanel in 1932.
The original Comète Necklace designed by Mlle Chanel in 1932. Photo Robert Bresson.

Here is a second interpretation of the Comète Necklace from the 1932 Collection: a claspless necklace delicately caressing the neck and sparkling with the light of an extraordinary star, at whose center is a 14.8 carats diamond:

Comete necklace

 

 

 

SOLEIL

A work of art’s apparent simplicity is definite proof of its grace. Gabrielle Chanel

 

Soleil necklace detail
Detail of the Soleil necklace. Photo Julien Claessens & Thomas Deschamps.

Originally presented in Mademoiselle Chanel’s Collection in 1932, the Soleil now appears in all its glory on a necklace featuring multiple diamond-set chains, held by a large sun of white and yellow diamonds.

Necklace in 18k white gold, yellow gold and diamonds.
Necklace in 18k white gold, yellow gold and diamonds.
Soleil brooch
1932 original Soleil brooch.

Soleil no longer alone, this time accompanied by stars, moon crescents and more suns, for a necklace which seems to have been created from the imagination of Gabrielle Chanel herself, as she admired the stone tiling of the floor at her boarding school in Aubazine:

Soleil necklace 2

 

 

RUBAN

I want the jewellery to be like a ribbon on a woman’s finger…  Gabrielle Chanel.

 

The ring presented here is meant to be a contemporary tribute to the Bows of 1932. Deconstructed in the spirit of couture, this asymmetric design features and “undone ribbon” effect.

Ring in 18k white gold and asher-cut diamonds.
Ring in 18k white gold and asher-cut diamonds.

With soft spirals and exquisite volumes, the Ruban necklace is a unique creations with a distinctive couture feel. It unites black and white diamonds, reinterpreting the iconic contrast that was so dear to Mademoiselle Chanel.

Necklace in 18k white gold, black diamonds and white diamonds.
Necklace in 18k white gold, black diamonds and white diamonds.
1932 original Bow chocker and brooches.
1932 original Bow necklace, chocker and brooches (picture below).

Bow choker and brooches

 

 

FRANGES

Elegance is the line. Gabrielle Chanel

 

Marked by the aesthetics of the 1930s, the Fountain necklace is a creation of exceptional brilliance, a waterfall of round and baguette-cut diamonds cascading across the bust.

Necklace in 18k white gold and diamonds.
Necklace in 18k white gold and diamonds.
Franges necklace from the original 1932 collection, VU, November 1932.
Franges necklace from the original 1932 collection, VU, November 1932.

A clear tribute to the jewellery style of the Roaring Twenties, this delicate and dramatic Frange Cuff has an ensemble of round diamonds framed by soft baguette-cut diamonds. The creation wraps around the wrist, following its every movement.

Cuff in 18k white gold and diamonds.
Cuff in 18k white gold and diamonds.
Capture4
Frange white gold and diamonds bracelet from the 1932 collection.

 

 

CONSTELLATION DU LION

I was born under the sign of Leo. Gabrielle Chanel

 

Lion detail

For the first time, the Lion, an icon of Chanel high jewellery, is featured on a sumptuous sautoir where the rock crystal lion crowns a comet crafted in diamonds.

Necklace in 18k white gold, rock crystal and diamonds,
Necklace in 18k white gold, rock crystal and diamonds.

The Lion ring reinterprets this symbolic theme, blending rock crystal, white gold and diamonds:

COnstellation du Lion ring

 

If I have chosen diamonds, it is because they represent the greatest value in the smallest form. And my love of things that sparkle has inspired me to try to combine elegance and fashion through the medium of jewellery. Gabrielle Chanel

 

 

Material courtesy of Chanel.

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