November 1932. Miss Chanel presented her first High Jewellery collection, simply entitled “Bijoux de Diamants” at her mansion in the Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris.
Fascinated by the brilliance and purity of the diamond, of which she wrote “its density represents the greatest value for the smallest size”, she created a whole series of innovative and sumptuous jewels.
To celebrate the 80th anniversary of “Bijoux de Diamants”, CHANEL created an exceptional collection of 80 High Jewellery pieces which travelled the world throughout 2012.
A combination of reproduced and reinterpreted pieces, today’s collection evokes the theme of art deco in its ribbons, bands, black and white tones, or delicate threads of diamond.
This unique collection was unveiled in five episodes, each revealing a different theme of the collection.
I wanted to cover women in constellations! Stars! Stars of all sizes… Gabrielle Chanel
The Shooting Star Necklace is a new interpretation of the original Comète Necklace. This piece, made of a cascade of chains formed from baguette-cut diamonds, is held together by a large diamond star that can be freely positioned on the shoulder or bust. It symbolises the quest for freedom that was so dear to Mademoiselle Chanel.
Here is a second interpretation of the Comète Necklace from the 1932 Collection: a claspless necklace delicately caressing the neck and sparkling with the light of an extraordinary star, at whose centre is a 14.8 carats diamond:
A work of art’s apparent simplicity is definite proof of its grace. Gabrielle Chanel
Originally presented in Mademoiselle Chanel’s Collection in 1932, the Soleil now appears in all its glory on a necklace featuring multiple diamond-set chains, held by a large sun of white and yellow diamonds.
Soleil no longer alone, this time accompanied by stars, moon crescents and more suns, for a necklace which seems to have been created from the imagination of Gabrielle Chanel herself, as she admired the stone tiling of the floor at her boarding school in Aubazine:
I want the jewellery to be like a ribbon on a woman’s finger… Gabrielle Chanel.
The ring presented here is meant to be a contemporary tribute to the Bows of 1932. Deconstructed in the spirit of couture, this asymmetric design features an “undone ribbon” effect.
With soft spirals and exquisite volumes, the Ruban necklace is a unique creation with a distinctive couture feel. It unites black and white diamonds, reinterpreting the iconic contrast that was so dear to Mademoiselle Chanel.
Elegance is the line. Gabrielle Chanel
Marked by the aesthetics of the 1930s, the Fountain necklace is a creation of exceptional brilliance, a waterfall of round and baguette-cut diamonds cascading across the bust.
A clear tribute to the jewellery style of the Roaring Twenties, this delicate and dramatic Frange Cuff has an ensemble of round diamonds framed by soft baguette-cut diamonds. The creation wraps around the wrist, following its every movement.
CONSTELLATION DU LION
I was born under the sign of Leo. Gabrielle Chanel
For the first time, the Lion, an icon of Chanel high jewellery, is featured on a sumptuous sautoir where the rock crystal lion crowns a comet crafted in diamonds.
The Lion ring reinterprets this symbolic theme, blending rock crystal, white gold and diamonds:
If I have chosen diamonds, it is because they represent the greatest value in the smallest form. And my love of things that sparkle has inspired me to try to combine elegance and fashion through the medium of jewellery. Gabrielle Chanel
Material courtesy of Chanel.