‘Plume de Chanel’ High Jewellery Collection

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In 1910, a young Gabrielle Chanel stepped into the spotlight, her image captured in the theatre magazine Comoedia Illustré. She was pictured wearing a hat crowned with a single, striking white feather. It was her first creation to grace the press—a subtle yet bold statement of the creativity that would define her legacy.

By 1932, that feather soared to new heights, transformed into a diamond-set brooch in her groundbreaking “Bijoux de Diamants” collection, Chanel’s first (and unique) foray into High Jewellery.

Today, the feather returns as the star of the Maison’s latest High Jewellery collection, “Plume de Chanel”, a thoughtful ode to its past and a stunning vision of its future.

This collection, designed by the late Patrice Leguéreau, former Director of the CHANEL Fine Jewelry Creation Studio, is both a celebration of Chanel’s heritage and a testament to his extraordinary talent. Leguéreau, who passed away recently, leaves behind a legacy of innovation, and “Plume de Chanel” stands as a poignant adieu—a final flourish of the feather motif he first reimagined in 2010.

A Feather in Flight: Lightness and Versatility

The “Plume de Chanel” collection reinterprets the feather with an ethereal grace that feels almost alive. Across six distinct jewellery sets, comprising 15 exquisite pieces, the feather unfurls in a way that’s light, airy, and endlessly adaptable. Its barbs ripple with movement, thanks to a technique called spherical emmaillement, which keeps the base anchored while allowing the tip to sway gently. The result? A feather that dances on the skin, as if caught in a soft breeze.

This collection is all about freedom. Echoing the transformable spirit of the 1932 brooch, these pieces are designed to move with the wearer—wrapping around a neck, cascading through hair, or curving over a finger.

Take the PLUME COUTURE DE CHANEL necklace, a standout creation in white gold, pink gold, and platinum, adorned with diamonds and pink sapphires.

Its two rows of diamonds can be detached or reconfigured into a sautoir, while a deep-pink sapphire dangles like a dew-kissed plume. Versatility, as Gabrielle Chanel once envisioned, is the heartbeat of this collection.

A Palette of Pink: Feminine and Bold

Colour plays a starring role in “Plume de Chanel,” with a palette that sweeps from pristine white to the richest shades of pink. Diamonds lend their signature sparkle, while pink sapphires and tourmalines add warmth and depth. This gradient of hues enhances the feather’s delicate form, infusing each piece with a soft, feminine allure.

One highlight is the PLUME MADEMOISELLE DE CHANEL ring, a “Toi et moi” design that pairs a feather of fancy-cut diamonds with a light pink pear-cut diamond.

The interplay of intricate detail and understated elegance makes it a modern classic.

Meanwhile, the PLUME SINGULIÈRE DE CHANEL head jewel, set with a pear-shaped diamond, offers a daring yet delicate option—perfect for adorning the hair with a touch of couture drama.

Patrice Leguéreau’s Lasting Legacy

Patrice Leguéreau’s fingerprints are all over this collection. His fascination with the 1932 feather began over a decade ago, when he dedicated his first High Jewellery collection to the motif.

With “Plume de Chanel,” he refines that vision, blending cutting-edge craftsmanship with a deep respect for Chanel’s history. His use of spherical emmaillement and his focus on transformability showcase a designer who never stopped pushing boundaries.

Leguéreau’s work reflects Gabrielle Chanel’s own philosophy, captured in her words: “My jewellery is never detached from the idea of a woman and her dress. Because dresses change, jewellery, too, is evolving.” Under his stewardship, the CHANEL Fine Jewelry Creation Studio has become a place where tradition and innovation intertwine, and this collection is a shining example of that ethos.

A Bridge Between Past and Present

The feather has been a thread in Chanel’s story for over a century—first as a millinery flourish, then as a jewelled icon. With “Plume de Chanel,” it takes on new life, honouring Gabrielle Chanel’s audacity while speaking to today’s women. Each piece marries the Maison’s storied savoir-faire with a modern sensibility, from the supple curves of the feathers to the vibrant gemstones that bring them to life.

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Spotlight on the Jewels: Craftsmanship and Creativity in “Plume de Chanel”

The “Plume de Chanel” collection is a masterclass in High Jewellery, where each piece tells its own story through meticulous design and exceptional gemstones. Comprising six jewellery sets—PLUME COUTURE DE CHANEL, PLUME ROSE DE CHANEL, PLUME SINGULIÈRE DE CHANEL, PLUME MADEMOISELLE DE CHANEL, PLUME LIBRE DE CHANEL, and PLUME DE CHANEL 2024—the collection showcases an array of necklaces, brooches, rings, earrings, and a head jewel—standout creations that highlight their unique features and the artistry that defines them.

PLUME COUTURE DE CHANEL Necklace: A Transformable Masterpiece

The PLUME COUTURE DE CHANEL necklace is a pinnacle of versatility and craftsmanship. Crafted from a harmonious blend of white gold, pink gold, and platinum, it features two detachable rows of brilliant-cut diamonds that can be worn as a choker, extended into a sautoir, or even separated for a minimalist look.

The feather motif is adorned with pastel pink sapphires, their soft glow complementing the diamonds’ icy sparkle. At its centre hangs a 5.04-carat cushion-cut pink sapphire, its rich hue evoking a sunset captured in stone. The necklace’s transformable design reflects Chanel’s heritage of adaptability, while its intricate setting—requiring hundreds of hours of artisanal work—underscores the Maison’s commitment to excellence.

PLUME ROSE DE CHANEL Brooch: A Study in Color and Form

The PLUME ROSE DE CHANEL brooch is a vibrant tribute to the power of pink. Its focal point is an 8.11-carat oval-cut pink tourmaline, a rare gemstone prized for its intense color and clarity.

The feather surrounding it is crafted in white gold, with barbs set with diamonds and pink sapphires that flow like delicate fibres. This brooch is as versatile as it is beautiful—it can be pinned to a jacket, woven into a scarf, or worn as a hair ornament, offering endless styling options. The choice of pink tourmaline sets this piece apart, showcasing Chanel’s willingness to explore unconventional stones in High Jewellery, while the feather’s dynamic shape captures the collection’s signature sense of movement.

PLUME SINGULIÈRE DE CHANEL Head Jewel: Couture for the Hair

The PLUME SINGULIÈRE DE CHANEL head jewel redefines how High Jewellery can be worn. Designed to cascade through the hair, this piece is crafted in white and pink gold, its feather motif set with diamonds that shimmer with every turn of the head.

At its tip, a 1.50-carat pear-shaped diamond dangles gracefully, its flawless cut amplifying its brilliance. The head jewel’s lightweight construction and flexible design ensure comfort, while its bold concept pays homage to Chanel’s millinery roots. This piece is a daring fusion of tradition and innovation, offering a fresh way to experience the feather’s elegance in a modern context.

PLUME MADEMOISELLE DE CHANEL Necklace: A Diamond’s Delicate Dance

The PLUME MADEMOISELLE DE CHANEL necklace is a study in balance and beauty. Its centerpiece is a 6.22-carat pear-shaped diamond of D FL (D color, Flawless) quality—an exceptional stone that radiates purity and light.

The feather motif, crafted in white gold, wraps around the diamond, its barbs set with smaller diamonds that enhance the central gem’s glow. The design achieves an illusion of weightlessness, with the feather appearing to flutter despite its precious materials. This necklace exemplifies the collection’s theme of lightness, with artisans employing the spherical emmaillement technique to give the piece a lifelike fluidity that echoes the natural grace of a feather in flight.

PLUME LIBRE DE CHANEL Brooches: A Playful Pair

The PLUME LIBRE DE CHANEL brooches offer a duo of delights, designed to be worn together or apart. One brooch features a 5.29-carat oval-cut pink sapphire, its warm tone contrasting beautifully with the white gold feather set with diamonds. The second showcases a 1.50-carat pear-shaped diamond, its crisp brilliance accentuating the feather’s delicate curves.

Both pieces, also incorporating pink gold accents, can be pinned to clothing, worn as pendants, or even attached to a bracelet, embodying the collection’s playful versatility. The pairing of pink sapphires and diamonds adds a lively, colourful dimension, making these brooches a standout expression of Chanel’s creative spirit.

PLUME DE CHANEL 2024: A Modern Take on the Feather

The PLUME DE CHANEL 2024 set—including a necklace, ring, and earrings—brings a contemporary edge to the collection.

The necklace features a 0.78-carat pear-shaped diamond, while the ring boasts a 1.03-carat stone of the same cut, each surrounded by a feather motif that feels sleeker and more streamlined than its counterparts. The earrings, meanwhile, incorporate smaller pear-shaped diamonds, their feather settings crafted to appear almost translucent. Rendered in white gold, these pieces are designed for everyday wear, blending timeless elegance with a modern sensibility. The use of pear-shaped diamonds throughout this set adds a dynamic, forward-looking energy, ensuring the feather motif feels as relevant today as it did in 1910.

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A Legacy of Craftsmanship and Vision

As we marvel at this collection, we’re reminded of Patrice Leguéreau’s remarkable contribution—and of Chanel’s ability to evolve without losing sight of its roots.

“Plume de Chanel” is more than jewellery; it’s a legacy set in motion, a delicate balance of history and innovation that will captivate for generations to come.