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Bonhams Fine Jewellery sale front cover catalogue image Dec 2017
Auctions Bonhams Exceptional Gemstones

Rare Fancy Coloured Diamonds at Bonhams London

When Fancy Coloured Diamonds have a provenance: Bonhams London's Fine Jewellery December sale to be led by exceptional Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds from the Cullinan family.

For the first time in auctions’ history, this December Bonhams London will offer two important collections of Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds belonging to the Cullinan family.

 

The upcoming Fine Jewellery sale, taking place at Bonhams London next 7 December will have an extraordinary leading lot.

The two collections forming the lot are composed of extremely rare Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds, very well matched in colour and with an equally extraordinary provenance, as they come directly from the Cullinan family.

 

Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamonds. Lot 122
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
A fancy-coloured diamond and diamond brooch
The three Fancy Vivid Yellow step-cut diamonds, weighing 5.29, 3.11 and 2.37 carats, set within a foliate spray, with brilliant and single-cut diamond highlights, remaining diamonds approximately 3.10 carats total, width 6.0cm
Accompanied by a report from GIA stating that the diamond weighing 5.29 carats is Fancy Vivid Yellow, natural colour, VS1 clarity. Report number 6187293461, dated 10 April 2017.
Accompanied by a report from GIA stating that the diamond weighing 3.11 carats is Fancy Vivid Yellow, natural colour, VVS2 clarity. Report number 5182293968, dated 10 April 2017.
Accompanied by a report from GIA stating that the diamond weighing 2.37 carats is Fancy Vivid Yellow, natural colour, VVS1 clarity. Report number 6187293932, dated 10 April 2017.
Provenance
The Cullinan Family
Estimate £200-300,000

 

The first of these two exceptional lots is a Fancy Coloured Diamond and Diamond Brooch, consisting of three step-cut Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds weighing 5.29, 3.11 and 2.37 carats respectively.

The second one is a Pair of Fancy Coloured Diamond and Diamond Earclips with brilliant-cut Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds weighing 2.08 and 1.93 carats.

 

A pair of Fancy Coloured Diamond and Diamond Earclips. Lot 121
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
A pair of fancy-coloured diamond and diamond earclips
The brilliant-cut Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds, weighing 2.08 and 1.93 carats, each within a stylised spray setting, with brilliant-cut diamond highlights, remaining diamonds approximately 1.50 carats total, length 2.6cm
Accompanied by a report from GIA stating that the diamond weighing 2.08 carats is Fancy Vivid Yellow, natural colour, SI1 clarity. Report number 5182293875, dated 17 April 2017.
Accompanied by a report from GIA stating that the diamond weighing 1.93 carats is Fancy Vivid Yellow, natural colour, VVS1 clarity. Report number 2185293772, dated 17 April 2017.
Provenance
The Cullinan Family
Estimate £50-80,000

 

The provenance of these diamonds is as grand as the gemstones themselves, as they belong to the Cullinan family, who never offered at auction this treasure before.

 

Jean Ghika, Bonhams Director of Jewellery for UK & Europe, explains:

“The diamonds were acquired in 1940 during a train journey when the present owner’s father-in-law, R.V. Cullinan, son of the famous South African diamond magnate Sir Thomas Cullinan, asked his friend General Pierre De Villiers, a director of De Beers, to buy him some diamonds on his next visit to Kimberley. On the train back from the De Beers mine at Kimberley, Sir Ernest Oppenheimer asked General De Villiers “What have you got this time?” The General retrieved a packet from his pocket and proudly showed Sir Ernest, who replied “I can do better than that” and showed the General a set of yellow diamonds. A deal was struck. The diamonds were then purchased by the General, who kept half, and the other half was given to R.V. Cullinan. These are the diamonds which we will be offering for sale.”

The fact that only one in approximately 10,000 of all diamonds mined as a fancy colour emphasises the value of yellow diamonds.

Mr Ghika adds that “Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds are some of the rarest in the world and the best examples are prized for their extraordinary vibrant tone and sun-like hue.  They are increasingly sought after, and we anticipate that they will attract a lot of interest from discerning collectors around the world.”

 

Fine Jewellery at its best

 

Bonhams Fine Jewellery sale will also offer exquisite pieces, such as this Pair of Fancy Coloured Diamond, Diamond and Cultured Pearl Earrings by Cartier.

 

A Pair of Fancy Coloured Diamond, Diamond and Cultured Pearl Earrings. Lot 119
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
A pair of fancy-coloured diamond, diamond and cultured pearl earrings, by Cartier
The fancy intense purplish pink cushion-shaped diamonds, weighing 1.01 and 1.01 carats, each suspending a detachable drop-shaped cultured pearl and brilliant-cut diamond, mounted in 18ct white gold, signed Cartier, numbered, maker’s mark, London hallmark, length 2.3cm, Cartier case and pouch
Accompanied by a report from GIA stating that the diamond weighing 1.01 carats is Fancy Intense Purplish Pink, natural colour. Report number 12158640, dated 2 August 2002.
Accompanied by a report from GIA stating that the diamond weighing 1.01 carats is Fancy Intense Purplish Pink, natural colour. Report number 12252169, dated 2 October 2002.
Accompanied by a valuation for insurance from Cartier, dated 18 June 2012.
Accompanied by a purchase receipt from Cartier, dated 7 February 2012.
Estimate £100-120,000

 

Two other major lots featuring colourless diamonds are A Diamond Single-Stone Ring featuring an old pear-shaped diamond, G colour, VVS2 clarity weighing 6.53 carats, and an exquisite Diamond Panel Bracelet, dated circa 1955, with a wide articulated buckle-shaped strap with openwork detail, and set with old brilliant, brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds in a geometric pattern.

 

A Diamond Single-Stone Ring (6.53 carats). Lot 120
A diamond single-stone ring The old pear-shaped diamond, weighing 6.53 carats, between tapered baguette-cut diamond shoulders, ring size H
Accompanied by a report from GIA stating that the diamond is G colour, VVS2 clarity. Report number 5182262120, dated 28th 2017.
Estimate £120-150,000
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
A diamond panel bracelet, circa 1955
The wide articulated buckle-shaped strap with openwork detail, set throughout with old brilliant, brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds in a repeating geometric design, principal old brilliant-cut diamonds approximately 2.90, 2.60, 2.45, 1.25 and 1.25 carats, remaining diamonds approximately 45.00 carats total, bracelet has been shortened, signed Leighton, length 17.0cm
Estimate £80-100,000

 

Signed Fine Jewellery not to be missed

 

The Fine Jewellery sale at Bonhams London will feature remarkable signed creations by outstanding Jewellery Maisons, such as this Important Diamond Ring by Harry Winston, New York, circa 1968, boasting an impressive marquise-cut diamond weighing 7.73 carats, F colour and VVS1 clarity.

 

An Important Diamond Ring by Harry Winston. Lot 123
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
An important diamond ring, by Harry Winston, New York, circa 1968 The marquise-cut diamond, weighing 7.73 carats, between tapered baguette-cut diamond shoulders, signed Winston, ring size L, cased by Harry Winston
Accompanied by a report from GIA stating that the diamond weighing 7.73 carats is F colour, VVS1 clarity. Report number 5182766884, dated 26 September 2017.
Accompanied by a report from IGI stating that the diamond weighing 7.73 carats is F colour, VVS2 clarity. Report number 40641, dated 27 May 2016.
Accompanied by a Retail Replacement Valuation from Harry Winston, New York. Reference number 37791/2/B, dated 14 August 2017.
Please note that part of the proceeds of the sale of this lot will be donated to the Women’s Cancer Center at the European Institute of Oncology in Milan, Italy.

 

If you love Verdura, you will not be disappointed by A Nephrite and Gem-Set Cuff and by A Black Jade and Gem-Set Cuff and Earclip Suite.

 

A Nephrite and Gem-Set Cuff by Verdura. Lot 116
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
A nephrite and gem-set cuff, by Verdura
The wide nephrite cuff highlighted by a Maltese cross decorated with an oval cabochon ruby between cabochon pear-shaped amethysts, circular-cut citrines and half pearls, signed Verdura, maker’s mark, inner diameter 5.0cm
Estimate £10-15,000
Black Jade and Gem-Set Cuff and Earclips by Verdura. Lot 117 (a)
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
A black jade and gem-set cuff and earclip suite, by Verdura
The wide black jade cuff applied with cabochon emeralds and sapphires, half pearls and brilliant-cut diamonds, the pair of earrings en suite, signed Verdura, maker’s mark, inner diameter 5.1cm
Estimate £12-15,000
Black Jade and Gem-Set Cuff and Earclips by Verdura. Lot 117 (b)
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
Black Jade and Gem-Set Earclips by Verdura

 

Following last September Andrew Grima auction’s success, twelve more Grima designed jewels will be presented in December. Among them will be An 18 Carat Gold and Diamond ‘Super Shell’ Necklace by Grima, 1972. This necklace was exhibited at the ‘Grima Retrospective’ in May 1991.

 

An 18 Carat Gold and Diamond 'Super Shell' Necklace by Grima. Lot 89
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
An 18 carat gold and diamond ‘Super Shell’ necklace, by Grima, 1972
The “Pacific textile”, also known as “cloth of gold”, cone shell, wrapped in textured yellow gold with brilliant-cut diamond detail, suspended from a gold torque, signed Grima, maker’s mark AGLtd, London hallmarks, pendant length 6.0cm, Grima pouch
Estimate £10-15,000

 

More highlights signed Grima include An Amethyst and Diamond Ring (1969), A Diamond-Set ‘Key’ Brooch/Pendant (circa 2002) and A Gold, Diamond and Tourmaline ‘Stick and Stones’ Necklace (1973).

 

An Amethyst and Diamond Ring by Grima. Lot 85
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
An amethyst and diamond ring, by Grima, 1969
The cabochon amethyst within an engraved 18 carat gold mount with brilliant-cut diamond highlights, signed Grima, HJCo maker’s mark, London hallmark, ring size R
Estimate £4-6,000
A Diamond-Set 'Key' Brooch_Pendant by Grima. Lot 90
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
A diamond-set ‘key’ brooch/pendant, by Grima, circa 2002
The textured openwork ‘key’, held by a brushed ‘ribbon’ with brilliant-cut diamond highlights, signed Grima, length 9.3cm, Grima case
Andrew Grima collected antique keys. He copied one of the keys from his collection to make this brooch. This is a unique one-off piece.
Estimate £4-6,000
A Gold, Diamond and Tourmaline 'Sticks and Stones' Necklace by Grima. Lot 92
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
A gold, diamond and tourmaline ‘Sticks and Stones’ necklace, by Grima, 1973
The elongated pendant set with a tourmaline crystal (repaired), terminating in a watermelon tourmaline ‘slice’, polished on one side, mounted in 18 carat textured yellow gold, with brilliant-cut diamond detail, suspended from a yellow gold torque, signed Grima, maker’s mark AGLtd, London hallmark, pendant length 13.0cm, Grima pouch
Exhibited: ‘Grima Retrospective’, May 1991 (London: Goldsmiths’ Hall); No 51 in the catalogue.
Estimate £4-6,000

 

Remaining in this section devoted to jewellery with a defined design imprint, I would like to also highlight this Rubellite Tourmaline and Diamond Ring by Margherita Burgener, a ring whose aerial structure embraces a 9.19-carat step-cut rubellite tourmaline.

 

A RUBELLITE TOURMALINE AND DIAMOND RING, by Margherita Burgener
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
A rubellite tourmaline and diamond ring, by Margherita Burgener
The step-cut rubellite tourmaline, weighing 9.19 carats, within a surround of orbiting rings pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, signed Margherita Burgener, diamonds approximately 3.60 carats total, ring size L
Estimate £10-12,000

 

Coloured stones are keeping their momentum

 

Throughout 2017, Bonhams registered a very good performance for sapphires originating from Kashmir.

In keeping with this favourable trend, the auction house will offer in December an elegant Gold, Sapphire and Diamond Ring featuring a cushion-cut sapphire weighing 3.89 carats.

 

A Gold, Sapphire and Diamond Ring. Lot 95
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
A sapphire and diamond ring
The oval-cut sapphire, weighing 3.89 carats, between baguette-cut diamond shoulders
Accompanied by a report from SSEF stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. Report number 96275, dated 30th October 2017.
Accompanied by a report from Gubelin stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. Report number 0912066, dated 10 December 2009.
Estimate £60-80,000

 

 

Period and vintage jewellery keep fascinating the public

 

A fine jewellery sale would not be such without some refined period, antique and vintage jewels. Browsing the lots that will be offered next December, here are our personal favourite.

 

A GOLD, ENAMEL, OPAL AND DIAMOND HINGED BANGLE, by Carlo Giuliano, circa 1890
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
A Gold, Enamel, Opal and Diamond Hinged Bangle, by Carlo Giuliano, circa 1890
The central cluster of three opal cabochons with old brilliant-cut diamond highlights, on a hinged bangle rendered in diverse motifs of black and white enamel, maker’s marks ‘CG’ in an oval lozenge, inner diameter 6.1cm
Estimate £8-10,000
A LATE 19TH CENTURY SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND BROOCH, circa 1890
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
A late 19th century sapphire and diamond brooch, circa 1890
The oval-cut sapphire, weighing 7.88 carats, between a pierced double surround of old brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in silver and gold, diamonds approximately 6.00 carats total, width 2.8cm, cased by Asprey, Bond Street, London
Estimate £15-20,000
A BELLE ÉPOQUE NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND FRINGE NECKLACE, circa 1900
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
A Belle Époque natural pearl and diamond fringe necklace, circa 1900
Designed as a delicate garland of old brilliant and rose-cut diamonds and natural pearls, suspending graduating rose-cut diamond swags, terminating in old brilliant-cut and rose-cut diamond and natural pearl bud motifs, mounted in platinum and yellow gold, diamonds approximately 9.50 carats total, length 37.2cm
Accompanied by a report from GCS stating that the pearls were found to be natural, saltwater, with no indications of treatment. Report number 78123-16, dated 20 October 2017.
Estimate £25-35,000
AN ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELET, Circa 1925
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
An Art Deco diamond bracelet, Circa 1925
The openwork strap designed as a series of stylised floral and foliate motifs, set at intervals with principal old brilliant-cut diamonds, within a ground of smaller old brilliant and single-cut diamonds, two diamonds deficient, diamonds approximately 18.60 carats, length 20.2cm, cased
Estimate £15-20,000
A LATE 19TH CENTURY NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND RING
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
A late 19th Century natural pearl and diamond ring
The natural pearl, measuring 12.1mm-12.8mm x 10.0mm, within a cartouche surround of old brilliant-cut diamonds, diamonds approximately 1.50 carats total, ring size N½
Accompanied by a report from The Gem & Pearl Laboratory stating that the pearl is natural, saltwater. Report number 14916, dated 28th October 2017.
Estimate £6-8,000
AN AQUAMARINE AND DIAMOND CLIP/BROOCH, by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin, circa 1940
Bonhams London Fine Jewellery
An aquamarine and diamond clip/brooch, by Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin, circa 1940
Of architectural inspiration, designed as a pylon or monumental gateway, pavé-set with old brilliant, brilliant, single and baguette-cut diamonds, with a large step-cut aquamarine at the centre, mounted in platinum and white gold, diamonds approximately 7.85 carats total, signed Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin, length 4.50cm
This brooch is an excellent example of Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin’s “high style” jewellery of the 1930s and 1940s. Sculptural platinum jewels set with huge, top-quality coloured gems and diamonds, combined “the authenticity of Paris with the sparkling originality associated with the name Trabert & Hoeffer” and were worn in glittering profusion by socialites and Hollywood royalty both on and off screen. Claudette Colbert, Marlene Dietrich, Mary Pickford, Greta Garbo and Paulette Goddard were among the stars from the Golden Age of Hollywood who wore and owned pieces by THM. This relatively brief 17-year collaboration, between American firm Trabert & Hoffer and French house Mauboussin, resulted in some of the most spectacular jewels made in 20th century America.
Estimate £14-18,000

 

 

 

 

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