At GemGenève to discover four new talents that brought in their creative inspirations to show us what the future of jewellery could look like.
A gentle breeze is blowing around new and personal creative visions.
GemGenève was a great show – new, highly selective, and fresh. A freshness that came in thanks to four new and talented designers who presented their creations to the world in the show’s Emerging Talents section.
This section was a colorful world offering different points of view on jewels and their symbolism. Treasures that are not merely ornaments, but that carry deep meaning, made alive by new designs, by materials and gemstones.
Discovering forward-thinking jewellery designers.
And it was indeed a moment of significant discovery, starting with Caspita, a brand of haute joaillerie based in Geneva.
Arlène Bonnant, a recognised art expert who extensively worked with both Simon de Pury and Daniella Luxembourg before stepping into the jewellery world, directs the Maison.
At GemGenève, Mme Bonnant focused on Caspita’s Chakra Collection, which draws inspiration from the seven chakras that highlight seven centres of energy on the human body. All in the shape of a lotus flower, they have specific colours link to the power they represent.
My jewels are not only works of art, but objects of contemplation. Arlène Bonnant
Chakras are centres of energy and awareness in the human body. The word «chakra» comes from Sanskrit, the sacred language of Ancient India, and means «wheel» or «disk». These disks are in constant revolution, as in the Ring 7 Chakras Tourbillon, connecting the inner personal and outer worlds.
Oselieri-Racine is another exciting, and pretty new, jewellery brand.
Also based in Geneva, Oselieri-Racine originates from the artistic and personal alliance of the two founders, Miriam Racine Bergesen and Pedro Oselieri Lopes. They met during their gemological studies and, after working in the industry in London and Geneva, decided to give life to their new adventure.
Oselieri-Racine’s jewels are one of a kind and hand-made in their workshop in Geneva. They are conceived and designed around the gems they personally chose, to tell a personal story that has deep meaning, like in the Vitrail Ring, inspired by the pure beauty of stained glass.
Very important is also the custom-made service. As always in high jewellery, every design can be personalized according to the client’s taste, or a new story can be drafted to infuse a unique and bespoke jewel of an individual and peculiar life.
Pierre d’Alexis has a story of its own.
The jewellery artisan behind this project, Grégoire Maret, learned the traditional jewellery skills in the Vallée de Joux. After his studies, he immediately started designing and creating for a selected clientele.
His jewels are like protective talismans, and he draws on Celtic culture and the natural world taking shapes and symbols into the jewellery world.
This gives his work a high level of originality, supported by Mr. Maret’s beloved precious and semi-precious stones, as well as Alpine minerals – part of his roots.
With a background in the industry of more than 20 years, Grégoire Maret and its Pierre d’Alexis collection premiered at GemGenève this year.
Last but not least, GemGenève also hosted luxury coming from the North of Europe, with Towe, by Scandinavian designer Towe Norlen.
Towe was founded in 1999 and bears the name of its founder, Towe Norlen.
Compared to her fellow-emerging-talent designers, Towe’s style is undoubtedly avant-garde and minimalistic. Its textured jewels are the purest expression of Scandinavian luxury, with a surprising touch of… biophysics – its unique ’Silk’-pattern reflects the microscopic shape of the perfect human skin.
Towe jewels are manufactured in Geneva and, with a sharp eye to innovation, in 2003 Towe Norlen patented a new jewellery production technique called ‘gold laser-sintering’ that is increasingly used in top-end jewellery manufacturing.
The work of these designers is displayed in a dedicated space in which visitors, we hope, will have time and space to study the jewels, to be intrigued, to see and appreciate the new dynamism that is energising jewellery-making today. Nadège Totah