Gilded Age Elegance: The Vanderbilt Jewels at Phillips Geneva

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This November, Phillips will unveil a glittering chapter of American aristocratic history as the Vanderbilt Family Jewels take centre stage at The Geneva Jewels Auction: V.

To be held on 10 November at the Hôtel President in Geneva, the sale will present twelve treasures of Belle Époque refinement and early 20th-century sophistication, once belonging to Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi.

Portrait of Gladys Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi by Philip de László, 1921.

Few dynasties embody the grandeur of America’s Gilded Age as compellingly as the Vanderbilts. With their fortune rooted in railroads and shipping, they became the very definition of power, taste, and wealth at the turn of the century. Their jewels, cherished heirlooms passed from one generation to the next, remain enduring emblems of elegance, ambition, and cultural influence.

The Vanderbilt Sapphire: An Icon of Royal Blue

At the heart of this historic collection lies The Vanderbilt Sapphire, a magnificent sugarloaf Kashmir sapphire of 42.68 carats, mounted as a brooch by Tiffany & Co.

‘The Vanderbilt Sapphire’, Tiffany & Co., Exceptional sapphire and diamond brooch, early 20th century.
Sugarloaf Kashmir sapphire weighing 42.68 carats, no indications of heating, ‘Royal Blue’ colour.
Given by Alice Gwynne Vanderbilt to her daughter, Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchenyi
Estimate: USD 1,000,000-1,500,000 / CHF800,000-1,200,000

Gifted by Alice Gwynne Vanderbilt to her daughter Gladys upon her marriage to Count László Széchényi in 1908, the brooch captures the spirit of a generation of heiresses who bridged American fortunes with European nobility. Its estimate of USD 1,000,000–1,500,000 underscores not only its intrinsic rarity but also its extraordinary provenance.

Cartier Masterpieces of Aristocratic Splendour

Equally captivating is a Cartier diamond brooch, originally part of a diamond tiara commissioned by Alice Vanderbilt for her daughter’s wedding. Designed with lily sprays and once embellished with interchangeable amethysts and diamonds, the tiara was later dismantled. The present brooch, set with a 4.55-carat pear-shaped diamond of E colour, survives as a dazzling relic of Gilded Age splendour and the transatlantic social ambitions of the Vanderbilts.

Cartier, Magnificent diamond brooch, circa 1905 Given by Alice Gwynne Vanderbilt to her daughter, Gladys Vanderbilt, on the occasion of her marriage to Count Laszló Széchenyi in 1908. Part of the wedding basket. Originally part of a tiara that could be detached as brooches and the main stones could be interchanged between amethysts or diamonds. Estimate: USD 100,000-150,000 / CHF80,000-120,000.

Gladys Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi, wearing the tiara at the Coronation of Emperor Charles and Empress Zita of Austria in 1916

Cartier Tiara given by Alice Gwynne Vanderbilt to her daughter, Gladys Vanderbilt upon her marriage in 1908 — Gladys Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi, wearing the tiara at the Coronation of Emperor Charles and Empress Zita of Austria in 1916

Beyond the Icons: Jewels of Daily Elegance

The collection also offers further items fromom Cartier and Tiffany & Co., jewels and objects that speak to both daily elegance and the discreet refinement of an heiress’s life.

A delicate diamond and emerald bow brooch from the late 19th century captures the lightness and femininity that so often defined Belle Époque design, while an early 20th-century diamond comb reflects the intimate artistry of jewelled accessories made to adorn not only gowns but hairstyles at courtly events.

Diamond and emerald brooch, late 19th century
Estimate: USD 5,000-8,000 / CHF 4,000-6,000.

Diamond comb, early 20th century — Diamond and emerald brooch, late 19th century
Estimate: USD 5,000-8,000 / CHF 4,000-6,000.

Gladys’s personal taste emerges in the Cartier vanity case of gold, ruby and diamonds, engraved with her monogram, and in a charming gold, ruby and diamond wristwatch, both combining preciousness with functionality.

Cartier gold ruby and diamond vanity case — Cartier, Gold, ruby and diamond vanity case
With the monogram of Gladys Vanderbilt
Estimate: USD 8,000-12,000 / CHF 6,000-9,500.

Cartier, Gold, ruby and diamond wristwatch — Cartier, Gold, ruby and diamond vanity case
With the monogram of Gladys Vanderbilt
Estimate: USD 8,000-12,000 / CHF 6,000-9,500.

The collection even preserves moments of personal history, such as the Cartier “8-Days” travelling clock, given to her on Christmas Day in 1913, its engraved dedication a tender reminder of aristocratic family life.

Cartier, 8 Day traveling clock — Cartier, 8 Day travelling clock
With GS monogram, and engraved from DS Xmas 1913.
Estimate: USD 5,000-8,000 / CHF 4,000-6,000.

Together, these pieces transform the collection into a portrait of an era, where beauty, symbolism, and daily rituals were inseparably bound to jewels.

A Legacy of Glamour and Heritage

Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, born in 1886 at the family’s Fifth Avenue mansion in New York and raised at The Breakers in Newport, Rhode Island, embodied the last generation of Gilded Age heiresses. Upon her marriage to Count Széchényi of Hungary, she carried the Vanderbilt name into the European aristocracy, wearing her jewels at courtly ceremonies such as the coronation of Emperor Charles and Empress Zita of Austria in 1916.

Today, these jewels are exceedingly rare survivals of a bygone world, treasured as much for their beauty as for their historical resonance.

“The Vanderbilt Family Jewels stand as the purest embodiment of Gilded Age elegance – pieces of extraordinary beauty, historical resonance, and fascinating provenance.”
Benoît Repellin, Worldwide Head of Jewellery

With just twelve lots offered, the Vanderbilt jewels promise collectors a unique opportunity to acquire not only works of artistry by Cartier and Tiffany & Co., but also fragments of American and European history.

Auction Details

The Vanderbilt Family Jewels will be offered at The Geneva Jewels Auction: V on 10 November 2025 at 3 p.m. CET at the Hôtel President, Geneva. Public viewing will take place from 5 to 10 November, with international previews scheduled in Hong Kong, New York, Singapore, Taipei, and London.

Closing Reflections

Today, as these treasures return to the public eye, they are more than glittering objects of desire. For collectors, they represent a rare opportunity to acquire pieces of exceptional craftsmanship and illustrious provenance. For history lovers, they embody the legacy of the Vanderbilt dynasty and the refined savoir-faire of Cartier and Tiffany & Co. Together, they remind us of jewellery’s timeless power to carry identity, memory, and aspiration across generations.