Bonhams, one of the world’s largest international auctioneers will offer a large selection of signed Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry in its Fine Jewelry Sale on October 7 in New York. Among these offerings are numerous signature pieces. Extraordinary Burmese rubies, fine Colombian emeralds, and large diamonds are other star lots.
One outstanding piece of this auction is this ruby and diamond bracelet (est. $100,000-200,000), signed by Van Cleef & Arpels, designed as a graduated band of oval-cut ruby cluster links enhanced by round brilliant-cut diamond borders. This lot is accompanied by a diamond extender that transforms the striking bracelet into a choker.
A ruby and diamond bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels the graduated band designed as a series of oval-cut ruby cluster links, enhanced by round brilliant-cut diamond borders, accompanied by a circular-cut diamond extender converting bracelet to a choker; signed VCA, no. NY3760 S.O.; estimated total diamond weight of bracelet: 23.00 carats; estimated total diamond weight of extender: 4.60 carats; bracelet mounted in eighteen karat gold; length: 6 1/2in.; extender mounted in eighteen karat gold and platinum; length: 6in.
Diamonds solitaires play a primary role in this auction. Among these outstanding pieces is this diamond solitaire ring, signed Tiffany & Co. (est. $225,000-325,000). The glittering piece is set with a large cornered square step-cut diamond weighing 7.38 carats, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamond shoulders.
A diamond solitaire ring, Tiffany & Co. set with a cut cornered square step-cut diamond, weighing 7.38 carats, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamond shoulders; signed Tiffany & Co, no. 901197, with signed box; mounted in platinum; size 4 3/4.
A natural triple strand pearl necklace is another noteworthy offering, estimated at $60,000-80,000. The necklace consists of 369 graduated natural gold pearls of superb luster and quality.
A natural pearl and diamond necklace designed as three strands of 129, 122 and 118 graduated natural golden pearls, measuring from approximately 7.60 to 2.80mm., joined by an old-cut diamond floret clasp; clasp mounted in eighteen karat gold; length: 18in.
Other highlights include art nouveau pendant necklace by René Lalique, in the original fitted box. Based on the address stamped in the fitted case, this necklace was sold between 1902 and 1905 (est. $15,000-25,000); this piece reflects a transition in Lalique’s career as he moved from jewellery making to glass works.
An art nouveau glass, baroque pearl, diamond and enamel pendant necklace, René Lalique, circa 1905 designed as a shield-shaped molded glass pendant with light blue patine, depicting a floral motif; enhanced by rose-cut diamond detail, suspending a baroque pearl, measuring approximately 10.35mm., from a light blue enamel link chain; signed Lalique, with signed box; necklace length: 22in.; pendant length: 3 1/4in. (pearl untested for origin, loss to enamel).
This pendant necklace likely dates from the period 1902-1905, as the address on the fitted box indicates that it was sold from Lalique’s Cours la Reine workshop, where he moved in 1902. Lalique had been experimenting with glass in jewelry since 1893, almost always combining the effects of glass and enamel, and his passion for the material continued to grow. In this molded glass jewel, wheel carving and staining allow Lalique to give the mass of chrysanthemums both depth and translucency. At the same time, the individual blossoms are subtly differentiated to show nuances of sky blue and violet shading. The rose-cut diamond tendrils provide a glittering counterpoint.
Moving forward in time, contemporary Van Cleef & Arpels collectors will find the diamond and 18 karat white gold “Lotus between the finger ring,” (est. $15,000-25,000) interesting. The whimsical design has a pavé-set diamond lotus flower and petals that wind around and between the fingers as two rings, and also folds into a single ring.
A diamond and eighteen karat white gold “Lotus between the finger ring”, Van Cleef & Arpels designed as a pavé-set diamond lotus flower and petals; signed VCA, no. no. 24428.50; estimated total diamond weight: 2.50 carats, size 7 1/4 and 5 3/4, together size 5 1/4.
Finally, for those connoisseurs in love with colours, here is a fine Paraiba tourmaline and diamond ring (est. $65,000-85,000).
A fine pariaba tourmaline and diamond ring centering an oval-cut tourmaline, measuring approximately 10.1 x 8.0 x 4.7mm., surrounded by round brilliant-cut diamonds, with bombe ropetwist mount and ribbed shank; mounted in eighteen karat gold; size 7 1/2 (with ring guard)
Lat but not the least, here are some pieces I fell in love with:
An art nouveau enamel, diamond and gem-set locket depicting a champleve enamel heron grappling with a rose-cut diamond serpent in a wetlands landscape, frame with floral and foliate rose-cut diamond motifs and engraved fish, and seed pearl accent; mounted in bicolor gold and silver-topped gold; length: 2 1/4in.; (evidence of solder). Est. US$ 6,000 – 9,000.Property from the Estate of Rosalynd C. Pflaum A natural pearl, gem-set and diamond necklace comprising three rows of seventy-one, sixty-nine and sixty-three pearls, measuring approximately 8.9 to 3.5mm., completed by a triple pavé-set diamond flowerhead clasp, enhanced by rubies, sapphires or emeralds, centering old European-cut diamonds or a fancy-cut emerald; estimated total diamond weight: 3.35 carats; largest diamonds weigh approximately: 1.30 and 1.50 carats; clasp mounted in fourteen karat gold; length: 16 1/2in. Estimate: US$ 40,000/60,000.An enamel, jadeite jade and diamond vanity case, Cartier, the rectangular form set with carved and pierced jadeite jade plaques, highlighted by transitional and single-cut diamonds, on a polygonal patterned blue champlevé enamel ground, opening to a mirrored interior with two lidded compartments; signed Cartier; estimated total diamond weight: 1.75 carats; mounted in fourteen karat gold and platinum; gross weight approximately: 199.7 grams; 2 3/4 x 2 1/2 x 3/4in. (enamel loss). Estimate: US$ 5,000 – 7,000.A diamond ring set with an oval brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 8.63 carats, with a baguette-cut diamond surround and split shoulders, enhanced by circular-cut diamonds, the gallery set with oval-cut diamonds; estimated remaining diamond weight: 4.30 carats; mounted in eighteen karat white gold. Estimate US$ 90,000-120,000).
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