The recent Royal Wedding of the Duke and Duchess of Sussex was a huge mediatic event.
The bride’s tiara, her three-stone engagement ring, and the aquamarine she wore to attend the evening reception are having an impact on what jewellery enthusiasts really want.
While in London last week, it was clear to witness how the Royal Wedding is shaping a trend in jewellery offer. Aquamarines and three-stone rings were (and we bet they still are) in triumph, the entire window shops crowned by beautiful tiaras.
It is every woman’s dream to be a princess or to marry a prince. The abundant offer of “Meghan-style” jewels will for sure make some feel like they can be one.
Catching the trend at Christie’s.
This same trend was also captured by one of the major auction houses worldwide.
At Christie’s London, the upcoming Important Jewels sale (King Street, 13 June) will offer in fact a stunning selection of important tiaras, of equally important three-stone rings, and of beautiful aquamarine jewels.
Tiaras.
Having a strong penchant for jewellery history, and for princesses, we will start with the tiaras.
We will be presenting four tiaras. Dated between late 19th century and Art Deco period, these tiaras dazzle and make us dream of bygone times.
Their antique craftsmanship – an art which is quite difficult to replicate today – and their gems accentuate their beauty.
Their provenance enhances their fascination and, in some cases, collectors would look for tiaras when discovering that one does not acquire one jewel but two – having a tiara that converts into a fabulous necklace, that is.
The first two tiaras of this ensemble are both dated to late 19th century, of spiked design, with diamonds and emeralds.
Drop-shaped and oval cabochon emeralds, old and rose-cut diamonds, silver and gold, circa 1880, inner circumference 24.5 cm
Gem and Pearl Laboratory report: Colombia, evidence of moderate clarity enhancement (central three emeralds).
Originally the property of a Royal Family, this Emerald and Diamond Tiara (lot 106 above) features important drop-shaped and oval cabochon emeralds on silver and gold, and it dates to circa 1880.
Square and rectangular-cut emeralds, rose-cut diamonds, silver and gold, with tiara frame, circa 1890, 35.0 cm
Please note that the pearls have not been tested for natural origin.
This other late 19th-century tiara presents beautiful floral motifs, in line with the aesthetic taste of the time. The design is embellished by pearls, emeralds and diamonds.
The additional beauty of this tiara is that it converts into a delicate necklace:
The second group features two historically important tiaras. Both entirely set with diamonds and both with Royal and aristocratic provenance.
The first jewel is an Art Déco Diamond Tiara/Necklace signed by Boucheron.
Circular and old-cut diamonds, 22 imitation diamonds, with tiara frame, circa 1935, 48.5 cm, signed Boucheron RM, with original fitted navy Boucheron case
Provenance
Formerly the property of Mrs Anne Norman, wife of the Right Honorable Sir Henry Norman and daughter of Henry Duncan McLaren, 2nd Baron Aberconway. Mrs Norman lived at Château de la Garoupe, an important villa in Cap d’Antibes, which was built by her grandfather, Charles Benjamin Bright McLaren, 1st Baron Aberconway, together with English architect Ernest George on a four-acre plot he had purchased in 1907. The Château played host to many celebrities of the time, including Cole Porter and his wife and Pablo Picasso.
This tiara, the property of a gentleman, comes with an aristocratic provenance. It formerly was the property of Mrs Anne Norman, wife of the Right Honorable Sir Henry Norman and daughter of Henry Duncan McLaren, 2nd Baron Aberconway.
This tiara also converts into a splendid diamond necklace:
The last tiara is the most precious, having a Royal Pedigree as it formerly was the property of HRH the Crown Princess of Yugoslavia, and belonged to the Princes of Orléans-Braganza’s collection. Here is an Important Belle Époque Diamond Tiara.
Old-cut, old pear-shaped and rose-cut diamonds, platinum, circa 1905, inner circumference 21.2 cm
Provenance
Louise Françoise Marie Laure d’Orléans, Princess of Bourbon-Two Sicilies and Infanta of Spain (1882-1958)
Maria de la Esperanza, Princess of the Bourbon-Two Sicilies (1914-2005)
Maria da Glória d’Orléans-Braganza, Duchess of Segorbe, Countess of Rivadavia and Crown Princess of Yugoslavia from 1972 to 1985 (b.1946) who, in 1982, offered this tiara via public auction in St. Moritz.
From an essay linked to this lot and written by Vincent Meylan (May 2018):
This diamond tiara was given to Princess Louise shortly after it was made during the first years of the 20th century. Its crescent moon shape is reminiscent of other royal tiaras.
The first, with diamonds and pearls, was given by King George V and his wife Queen Mary to their niece, Princess Alexandra of Fife when she married her cousin, the Prince Arthur of Connaught, in 1913.
The jewel was signed by Garrard, one of the jewellers to the British Crown. A second, very similar, with turquoise and diamonds, was gifted in 1926 by the same king, King George V, to his daughter-in-law, Lady Elizabeth Bowes Lyon, future Duchess of York.
The young Duchess transformed it by removing the upper row of diamonds that “closed” the jewel. It is possible that the Infanta Louise’s tiara has the same British provenance. As well as the style of the jewel, two other factors also suggest this heritage. The French Royal Family have lived in exile in England for over twenty years, and for this reason, the wedding of Princess Louise and Infante Carlos took place at Wood Norton Manor in Worcestershire. Additionally, at that time the French Royal Family is very closely linked to the British Royal Family. Queen Alexandra and two of her daughters, the Duchess of Fife and Princess Victoria, are in attendance at Louise’s wedding.
Following Louise’s death in 1958, her youngest daughter, Esperanza, inherits the tiara which she wore to the wedding in Athens. In 1982, the jewel was offered at auction by her eldest daughter, Princess Maria da Glória, then hereditary Princess of Yugoslavia.
Three-stone Rings.
The Duchess of Sussex’ three-stone ring is for sure setting a trend these days, and at Christie’s London, they thought about this when adding lovely three-stone rings to their Important Jewels sale’s catalogue.
With coloured or colourless diamonds, with emeralds or sapphires, all the combinations are there to choose that special token of love.
Tiffany & Co. is the signature of two of these rings, one with white diamonds (and the closest to the Duchess’ for perfect emulation) and another with a central white diamond and two sapphires.
Circular-cut diamond of 2.17 carats, circular-cut diamonds, platinum (London hallmarks), 2009, ring size I, signed Tiffany & Co.
Circular-cut diamond of 1.06 carats, circular-cut sapphires, platinum (London hallmark), 2005, ring size I, signed Tiffany & Co., maker’s mark
GIA report: 1.06 carats, E colour, VS1 clarity.
Two more lovely “trilogy” rings feature one a central squared cut-cornered emerald flanked by two circular-cut white diamonds, while the other presents a beautiful 3.01 Fancy Intense Yellow, oval modified brilliant-cut diamond flanked by two oval-cut white diamonds. These two rings are unsigned.
Square cut-cornered emerald of 1.72 carats, circular-cut diamonds.
Fancy intense yellow oval modified brilliant-cut diamond of 3.01 carats, oval-cut diamonds, ring size N
GIA report: 3.01 carats, Fancy Intense Yellow colour, VVS2 clarity.
Aquamarines are making their comeback.
For some, aquamarines have been neglected in favour of Paraiba tourmalines. What is for sure is that after the Duchess of Sussex was spotted wearing an aquamarine cocktail ring (most probably from Lady Diana’s collection) to add her “touch of blue” to her evening wedding reception’s white outfit, this gemstone is being sought after – again.
And, as we are talking about cocktail rings, Christie’s Important Jewels auction is presenting a stunning Aquamarine, Rose Quartz and Diamond Dress Ring signed by Margherita Burgener. This ring boasts a marvellous 31.90-carat aquamarine, framed by white diamonds and sustained by polished rose quartz panels.
Cut-cornered rectangular-cut aquamarine of 31.90 carats, polished rose quartz, circular-cut diamonds, ring size L, signed Margherita Burgener.
Should you wish to go for a total look, and to make a bold statement, you could match this ring with the Aquamarine and Diamond Bracelet here below – the aquamarines being accented by romantic heart-shaped diamonds.
Pear and heart-shaped aquamarines, circular-cut diamonds, platinum (London hallmarks), 17.3 cm.
On the contrary, should you prefer more subtle jewels, a lovely combination could be a necklace and a pair of earrings.
Pear-shaped aquamarines, circular-cut diamonds, platinum (London hallmark), 76.5 cm.
Cut-cornered square-cut aquamarines, circular-cut diamonds, 18ct white gold (London hallmarks), 6.9 cm.
Should you wish to take a closer look at these jewels, please go to Christie’s London, 8 King Street. Important Jewels auction will be on June 13.
All material courtesy of Christie’s London.
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