The Maison BOUCHERON has always had a privileged link with India, land of inspiration and fascination. Since Louis Boucheron’s very first journey in 1909, the architecture of its palaces, the colors of its cities have always had a prominent place as inspiration sources for the Maison in its creations.
The High Jewellery collection Bleu de Jodhpur is a bold jewellery interpretation of the blue city, a hommage from the Jeweller of Light to the Indian City of the Sun.
An exceptional collection that has been created and developed under the High Patronage of His Highness the Maharaja of Jodhpur, and for which Boucheron has chosen to work with very daring materials such as sand and marble. The most iconic jewel belonging to the collection, and the first to be unveiled by the Maison, is for sure the Jodhpur Necklace, Boucheron’s first entirely reversible necklace as the contemporary setting of the city’s play of white and blue light:
The Jodhpur necklace derives its design and lines directly by a necklace that was part of the most fabulous order ever made on the Place Vendôme – the Maharaja of Patiala’s commission in 1928 . Inspired by traditional Mughal jewellery, with its symmetrical structure, the jewel is as precious on the back as it is on the front, its “secret” side being exclusively destined for the pleasure of its owner.
To create the Jodhpur necklace, as said at the beginning of this article, unusual and daring materials have been chosen. In this case we are talking about the most precious and sought-after Makrana marble, extracted from the Jodhpur quarry: the same milky white stone that was used in 1631 to build the fabulous Taj Mahal.
The Jodhpur necklace is crafted following the great tradition of Indian prince’s jewellery, with a richly adorned underside, and a central diamond which has been chosen for its kite shape and ideal proportions.
The Maison included this feature to make the jewel perfectly reversible, paying homage to its tradition of multiple-wear pieces. Familiar with the excellence of creating jewels that are as beautiful on the back as they are on the front, the Hands of Light rose to the challenge of making a piece that was both imposing and supple, light and comfortable to wear.
On the reverse side of the necklace, an enchanting light twinkles and plays on the impressionist composition of blue and white houses – the exquisite work of jewellery inlay expresses the enduring memory and wonder of Jodhpur. Its front is an ode to the pure lines and radiance of its immaculate marble palaces.
India evokes also strong colour contrasts, and this is the beginning of the creation of the Fleur de Lotus necklace.
The Maison was inspired by the artistic movement “Garden & Cosmos” and celebrates the richness of two distinct painting styles that originated in Jodhpur and were commissioned by three generations of Maharajas from the 17th to the 19th century.
The richness set lies in the talent of the stone seeker who obtained an intensely pink tourmaline, that seems to have escaped from one of Jodhpur’s royal paintings. And then we have rubellites and spessartite garnets. Associated in a gradation of colors, they perfectly imitate the lotus petals, and each detail of the central motif have meticulously been worked for the flower to come to life and to express, through its volume, Boucheron’s savoir-faire at its highest. A true triumph of Nature.
The Fleur de Lotus set is the only one of the collection to be mounted on pink gold. Indeed, it perfectly matches the sand, peach –orange and pink shades of the stones, bringing them light and energy.
From bold colour to delicate and pure light: the Menhdi Necklace.
In 1878, Frédéric Boucheron created a sumptuous diamond bracelet, featuring the distinctive Indian drop motif and embellished with a superb garland of natural pearls. Also, in 1905, the Maharaja of Kapurthala commissioned an aigrette-feather adornment for his turban; the Paisley design held in its centre a 22-carat briolette cut diamond.
This motif is the origin for the inspired design of the Menhdi Necklace, a brooch-necklace jewel that follows Boucheron’s great tradition of multiwear jewellery.
The Mendhi set celebrates the elegance, delicacy and legendary beauty of the Rajput woman, with its delicate openwork motifs that are finely put together for an airy result where the metal seems to disappear.
To accentuate the poetic charm of the Mehndi, which is by nature ephemeral, Boucheron has imagined an eternal, diamond set tattoo, and, to obtain the effect of diamond embroidery, the Maison’s artisans have surrounded the centre stones with open-work motifs.
Boucheron’s Menhdi set is a brooch that is both generous in dimension and yet light as a feather. It is a jewel that transforms into a necklace, delicately deploying its lace-like foliage around the neckline.
At once artistic and jewellery work, necklace or brooch, the Mehndi jewellery set looks bold in any occasion.
Bleu de Jodhpur is not only about light and colours, it is also about cherishing. This is where the Nagaur Necklace comes from.
A talisman necklace, Nagaur is inspired by the fortress city, a miracle set in the middle of the Thar Desert which walls protect delicate palaces, enchanting pavilions and gardens bathed in sunlight, the dazzling brightness expressed in jewellery.
Like a precious memory, the Maison has brought back a bit of Rajasthan in the form of some grains of sand from the Thar desert. They are forever set in Nagaur, in the rock crystal.
Boucheron’s Creative Studio was inspired by the ceremonial necklaces of the Great Mughal emperors’ golden era, illustrating to the opulence and magnificence of the Rajput princes.
The Maison calls upon the traditional motifs and materials used for these creations, particularly gold, a sacred metal in India, diamonds and pearls. The addition of rock crystal gives bold modernity to the stylised contours of the Ahhichatragarh citadel.
The diamonds incrusted in the rock crystal symbolize the flowers that grow in the desert, and the artisan made himself sculptor to endiamond the necklace’s motif with an extreme precision.
The Nagaur necklace uses the traditional silk thread stringing technique. One by one, each pearl is added onto a strand and small gold and diamond cylinders are interspersed, enhancing the suppleness of the multiple-row necklace. A ring of light featuring three diamond–set attachments gathers the necklace to its central motif. The motif is adorned with stylized diamond arabesque patterns that represent the flowers of the desert. The symmetrical composition is structured around a water feature, symbolized by a 2 carat cushion cut diamond.
There are seven rows of pearls, the number being a sacred one in India. Seven or “saptan” in Sanskrit is a powerful symbol with many significations, in particular that of infinite plurality. It is a foundation of the Hindu universe: 7 spheres of the earth, 7 seas, 7 states of consciousness, 7 subtle energies… and to add romance to all this, in India a wedding is blessed if the spouses circle a fire 7 times, so that they will be united for 7 lives. CC
Post by Claudia Carletti, Jewellery Through Time. All material courtesy of Boucheron.
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