A bold, graphic block of colour is today standing out as one of most defining features in high jewellery, where a major directional shift in the use of coloured gemstones has emerged.
In parallel with the fashion world, high jewellery creations present structural, architectural forms and volumes, and more modernist and vanguardist lines, to the best advantage of the stones themselves, which stand out in all their crisply splendid polychromatic patterns – quite a dramatic and intense effect.
A master of coloured gemstones in its High Jewellery pieces, Bulgari is, no doubt, the supreme representative of colour-block jewellery. Colour is the Maison’s DNA, one of the most recognisable and iconic features of a Bulgari creation.
An established expert in diamond design, Bulgari creations have always featured the finest diamonds since the 1920s. Gradually, Bulgari began to add precious, rare coloured gems to complement the pieces.
In the 1950s, Bulgari took the colour revolution to the next level. Deviating from the traditional, diamond-based Parisian school of jewellery, Bulgari developed a bold and unprecedented style, exploring unusual colour combinations such as rubies and emeralds, and sapphires of the entire palette. Jewellery came alive in a rainbow of colour combinations.
Further invention built upon the classic asymmetrical motif and traditional cut – Bulgari designed with symmetrical, compact shapes, and reintroduced the use of the cabochon cut for prominent, high-quality gemstones. A cabochon-cut gem is ideal to convey a sense of volume, luminosity and contrast with the surrounding faceted diamonds, and serves to highlight a stone’s aesthetic potential. This shape for large gemstones recalls Greek and Roman refinement, but since fell out of custom; today it has become a Bulgari trademark.
With similar foresight, contemporary Bulgari designs have also featured the ancient mogul or takhti cut, allowing an egg-shaped luminescence that can be difficult to achieve, but has a dramatically smooth result.
The beauty within the stone – what truly makes them one-of-a-kind – is at the heart of every Bulgari design: timeless sense of exquisite beauty.
Mused in multiple renditions, the MVSA Collection is comprised of creations that sing with colour.
The MVSA necklace in platinum features a cushion-shaped cabochon-cut emerald, dozens of emeralds and rubies, round brilliant-cut and pavé diamonds as well as fancy shaped step-cut diamonds. The platinum necklace is equally multifaceted, with a stunning cabochon-cut emerald that radiates with round, buff-top and fancy-shaped spinel beads, emeralds, rubies and round brilliant-cut and pavé diamonds.
And here are more outstanding pieces from MVSA Collection – colour-block at its best.
To close this fabulous gallery, here are creations from Bulgari’s DIVA Collection, which incorporates Bulgari hallmarks: sophisticated style, unconventional yet imbued-with-femininity shapes, and refined gemstones.
Material courtesy of Bulgari; Bulgari 2014 Jewellery Catalogue (pdf available on www.bulgari.com); How To Spend It by Financial Times.
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