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Auctions Blog Christie's History & Heritage

Auctions: Magnificent Jewels at Christie’s Geneva on November 11 2014 – a personal selection

As promised, here is my personal selection out of the catalogue of the upcoming auction Magnificent Jewels, which will take place at Christie’s Geneva, next November 11th. Here in my previous post, the auction’s highlights.

I do have a strong penchant for Art Deco jewellery: utterly modern geometric lines which allow these pieces to be worn in a very casual yet sophisticated way even today.

The auction will present quite a few interesting pieces, and here are my favourite:

 

AN ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND SAUTOIR  The pendant centering upon a detachable rectangular-cut emerald in an openwork diamond geometrical surround with baguette-cut diamond fringe, to the geometrical diamond-set link chain, can detach to form four bracelets, 1920s, necklace 75.0 cm, bracelets 18.5 cm each. Estimate US$ 130,726 - $183,017.
AN ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND SAUTOIR
The pendant centering upon a detachable rectangular-cut emerald in an openwork diamond geometrical surround with baguette-cut diamond fringe, to the geometrical diamond-set link chain, can detach to form four bracelets, 1920s, necklace 75.0 cm, bracelets 18.5 cm each. Estimate US$ 130,726 – $183,017.

Pearls are back on trend these day, therefore this creation by Chaumet really cannot be missed:

AN ART DECO NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY CHAUMET  The two strands composed of forty-five and forty-six graduated natural pearls, measuring approximately 10.5 to 5.4 mm, to the diamond-set clasp, 1930s, shortest strand 39.1 cm, with French assay marks for platinum and gold With maker's mark for Chaumet (partially illegible). Estimate US$ 83,665 - $125,497.
AN ART DECO NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY CHAUMET
The two strands composed of forty-five and forty-six graduated natural pearls, measuring approximately 10.5 to 5.4 mm, to the diamond-set clasp, 1930s, shortest strand 39.1 cm, with French assay marks for platinum and gold
With maker’s mark for Chaumet (partially illegible). Estimate US$ 83,665 – $125,497.

An evergreen and utterly modern bracelet, by Cartier (imagine it with a white shirt, your favourite denim, a clutch and nude heels):

AN ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER  Designed as three rectangular openwork panels pavé-set with diamonds, each centering upon a rectangular-cut emerald, to the similarly-set spacers and baguette-cut diamond bombé links, 1930s, 18.8 cm Signed Cartier, London. Estimate US$ 52,291 - $78,436.
AN ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
Designed as three rectangular openwork panels pavé-set with diamonds, each centering upon a rectangular-cut emerald, to the similarly-set spacers and baguette-cut diamond bombé links, 1930s, 18.8 cm
Signed Cartier, London. Estimate US$ 52,291 – $78,436.

Back to pearls, with this pair of natural pearls ear pendants:

A PAIR OF ART DECO NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS  Each suspending an associated baroque drop-shaped natural pearl from a kite-shaped, circular and baguette-cut diamond line, 1920s, 5.2 cm. estimate US$ 104,581 - $156,872.
A PAIR OF ART DECO NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND EAR PENDANTS
Each suspending an associated baroque drop-shaped natural pearl from a kite-shaped, circular and baguette-cut diamond line, 1920s, 5.2 cm. estimate US$ 104,581 – $156,872.

Finally, to end the “Art Deco section”, here is an authentic sweet heart:

AN ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELET-WATCH, BY BOUCHERON  Of stylized lock design, with silver coloured dial to the side, pavé-set diamond hoop and detail, baguette-cut diamond line rim and 'B' initial, to the twin tubogas strap and buckle deployant clasp, 1936. Estimate US$ 20,916 - $31,374.
AN ART DECO DIAMOND BRACELET-WATCH, BY BOUCHERON
Of stylized lock design, with silver coloured dial to the side, pavé-set diamond hoop and detail, baguette-cut diamond line rim and ‘B’ initial, to the twin tubogas strap and buckle deployant clasp, 1936. Estimate US$ 20,916 – $31,374.

 

At the auction will also be present very interesting jewels belonging to the Retro (1940s) period, which I cannot ignore here, especially now that November has begun, whose gemstone is citrine (together with topaz).

Of sleek and contemporary design, here is Cartier:

A SET OF RETRO CITRINE JEWELLERY, BY CARTIER  Comprising a necklace designed as a line of rectangular step-cut citrines, to the bow-shaped gold and pavé-set diamond clasp, a bracelet en suite, mounted in gold, 1940s. Estimate US$ 39,741 - $64,840.
A SET OF RETRO CITRINE JEWELLERY, BY CARTIER
Comprising a necklace designed as a line of rectangular step-cut citrines, to the bow-shaped gold and pavé-set diamond clasp, a bracelet en suite, mounted in gold, 1940s. Estimate US$ 39,741 – $64,840.

By Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin, a creation more travaillé :

A SET OF RETRO CITRINE AND GOLD 'REFLECTION' JEWELLERY, BY TRABERT & HOEFFER-MAUBOUSSIN Comprising a bracelet, centering upon a rectangular-cut citrine, measuring approximately 37.2 x 24.7 x 17.7 mm, in a scrolling ribbon surround, to the hinged gold bangle, set throughout with rectangular-cut citrines, a necklace and a brooch/pendant en suite, mounted in gold, 1940s. Estimate US$ 39,741 - $64,840.
A SET OF RETRO CITRINE AND GOLD ‘REFLECTION’ JEWELLERY, BY TRABERT & HOEFFER-MAUBOUSSIN
Comprising a bracelet, centering upon a rectangular-cut citrine, in a scrolling ribbon surround, to the hinged gold bangle, set throughout with rectangular-cut citrines, a necklace and a brooch/pendant en suite, mounted in gold, 1940s. Estimate US$ 39,741 – $64,840.

This is the coup de coeur of the day, a ring/watch by Van Clef & Arpels:

A RETRO DIAMOND AND GOLD RING/WATCH, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS  Of sculpted design, the triple brilliant-cut diamond line center to reeded gold and diamond line sides, opening to reveal a tonneau-shaped dial, mechanical movement, 1940s. estimate US$ 15,164 - $19,870.
A RETRO DIAMOND AND GOLD RING/WATCH, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Of sculpted design, the triple brilliant-cut diamond line center to reeded gold and diamond line sides, opening to reveal a tonneau-shaped dial, mechanical movement, 1940s. estimate US$ 15,164 – $19,870.

 

Back to the 20th Century now, a few more pieces chosen here and there. Let us stay with watches jewels for a moment:

A CORAL AND GOLD PENDENT WATCH, BY PIAGET  The coral dial within a gold ropework bezel, bearing gold hands, on a triple gold link chain, highlighted by coral beads and detail to the gold and coral bead fringe, 1970s. Estimate US$ 12,550 - $18,825.
A CORAL AND GOLD PENDENT WATCH, BY PIAGET
The coral dial within a gold ropework bezel, bearing gold hands, on a triple gold link chain, highlighted by coral beads and detail to the gold and coral bead fringe, 1970s. Estimate US$ 12,550 – $18,825.

The beginning of the 20th Century, during the Belle Epoque Stylistic period, has witnessed the flourishing of tiaras and diadems creation, of which here is an exquisite example, featuring a cabochon-cut sapphire:

A BELLE EPOQUE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND TIARA  Centering upon a collet-set cabochon sapphire in a rose and old-cut diamond scrolling frame, extending tapered openwork diamond-set branches, 1910s. Estimate US$ 31,374 - $52,291.
A BELLE EPOQUE SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND TIARA
Centering upon a collet-set cabochon sapphire in a rose and old-cut diamond scrolling frame, extending tapered openwork diamond-set branches, 1910s. Estimate US$ 31,374 – $52,291.

The following and last piece of this gallery is dramatic and spectacular at the same time, opposing cold and warm hues – great colour contrast by David Webb:

A SAPPHIRE, COLOURED SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB  Composed of ten graduated oval-shaped bombé links, each centering upon a cushion-shaped yellow sapphire line, between vari-cut sapphire lines with pavé-set diamond cross-shaped links at the front, mounted in platinum and gold, 1958. Estimate US$ 250,995 - $298,056.
A SAPPHIRE, COLOURED SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY DAVID WEBB
Composed of ten graduated oval-shaped bombé links, each centering upon a cushion-shaped yellow sapphire line, between vari-cut sapphire lines with pavé-set diamond cross-shaped links at the front, mounted in platinum and gold, 1958. Estimate US$ 250,995 – $298,056.

 

I hope you enjoyed the voyage. You will find all the 390 auction’s lots on Christie’s web site: which one is your favourite?

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