A Forever Treasure: The 1925 Sautoir Necklace by Marsh & Co.

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Introduction: A Glimpse into the Golden Age of Jewellery

Picture yourself in the Roaring Twenties: flapper dresses shimmer under dimly lit chandeliers, jazz fills the air, and jewellery becomes a bold statement of elegance and liberation.

Enter the Sautoir necklace—a long, luxurious strand of pearls or gems, often finished with a tassel or pendant, designed to drape gracefully over the wearer. One such treasure, a circa 1925 Sautoir by Marsh & Co., has recently stolen the spotlight, showcased by the prestigious Hancocks London.

Marsh & Co. sautoir necklace, 1925. Hancocks London

This stunning piece, adorned with four rows of natural pearls, platinum, and diamonds, isn’t just a necklace—it’s a journey back to the Art Deco era, a celebration of unparalleled craftsmanship, and a collector’s gem. Join us as we uncover the intricate details, historical significance, and enduring charm of this vintage Sautoir necklace.

The Sautoir: A 1920s Icon of Style

The Sautoir necklace rose to fame in the early 20th century, perfectly capturing the spirit of the 1920s. Known as the “jumper” in French, this long necklace often reached the waist or beyond, adding drama and movement to the sleek silhouettes of the era’s fashion. According to Antique Jewelry University, Sautoirs were beloved for their versatility—worn single-stranded or looped for a layered effect.

Portrait of Actress Alden Gay by Edward Steichen. Source: Antique Jewellery University.

In the Art Deco period, defined by geometric precision and lavish materials, the Sautoir became a jeweller’s playground. The Marsh & Co. Sautoir we’re exploring today is a shining example of this, blending sophistication with the bold design trends of 1920s jewellery.

Design Spotlight: Craftsmanship That Dazzles

Let’s take a closer look at what makes this circa 1925 Sautoir a standout piece of Art Deco jewellery:

Four Rows of Natural Pearls: The necklace features four rows of small, lustrous natural pearls—a rare and luxurious choice. Unlike today’s cultured pearls, natural pearls were treasures of the sea, coveted for their organic beauty and scarcity.

Platinum and Diamond Dividers: Connecting the pearl strands are platinum dividers encrusted with diamonds, offering a subtle sparkle and reinforcing the geometric symmetry that defines Art Deco design.

A Bold Oval-Cut Diamond: At the necklace’s center sits an impressive oval-cut diamond, weighing approximately 1.10 carats. Framed by intricate platinum openwork and a diamond-set border, this gem is the Sautoir’s crowning glory.

Marsh & Co. sautoir necklace, 1925. Hancocks London – details of the oval-cut diamond

A Playful Pearl Tassel: Below the central diamond hangs a tassel of cascading natural pearls, suspended from a diamond-accented platinum cap. This detail adds a touch of whimsy and movement, echoing the lively spirit of the Jazz Age.

Beauty in Every Angle: Even the clasp—a tongue-and-box design—shines with an old mine cushion-cut diamond, proving that Marsh & Co. spared no effort, front or back.

Marsh & Co. sautoir necklace, 1925. Hancocks London – detail of the clasp

Amy Burton, Creative Director at Hancocks London, sums it up perfectly: “This Sautoir embodies the opulence and geometric precision of Art Deco design, a testament to Marsh & Co.’s legacy of exceptional craftsmanship. It’s a true collector’s piece—one that captures the spirit of a golden age and remains effortlessly timeless.”

Marsh & Co.: Crafting a Legacy

The story of this Sautoir wouldn’t be complete without a nod to its maker, Marsh & Co. Founded in 1876 by George Turner Marsh in San Francisco, the company began as an importer of Asian art and antiques, as detailed by Lang Antiques. By the 1930s, Marsh & Co. had earned a reputation for jewellery that often fused oxidized steel with pearls and jade, per Wilson’s Estate Jewelry.

This 1925 Sautoir, however, hails from an earlier chapter of their work, showcasing their mastery of platinum and diamonds in a distinctly Art Deco style. Its creation hints at Marsh & Co.’s versatility, laying the groundwork for their later innovations. Browse similar pieces on 1stDibs to see how their designs evolved.

Hancocks London: Where History Meets Prestige

Today, this Sautoir resides with Hancocks London, a name synonymous with fine jewellery since 1849. Founded by Charles F. Hancock, the firm has a rich history—from crafting the Victoria Cross to earning Royal Warrants. Today, Hancocks curates exceptional antique and modern pieces, making it the ideal home for this Marsh & Co. masterpiece.

Amy Burton notes, “Marsh & Co. created elegant and refined jewels that epitomised the glamour of the 1920s and 1930s.” With Hancocks’ seal of approval, this Sautoir shines as a collector’s must-have.

A Collector’s Dream: Why This Piece Stands Out

What makes this vintage Sautoir necklace so covetable? Here’s why it’s a treasure for enthusiasts:

Historical Value: Crafted in 1925, it encapsulates the Art Deco movement’s peak, offering a rare snapshot of Marsh & Co.’s early jewellery work.
Rare Materials: Natural pearls, platinum, and diamonds elevate its rarity. Natural pearls, in particular, are a dwindling resource, prized by collectors.
Timeless Design: Nearly a century old, its flowing silhouette and geometric elegance make it wearable today—pair it with a modern gown or a vintage-inspired look.
Exceptional Craftsmanship: From the diamond dividers to the ornate clasp, every detail reflects Marsh & Co.’s dedication to quality.

Conclusion: Wearable History, Endless Charm

The circa 1925 Sautoir by Marsh & Co. is more than a platinum and diamond necklace—it’s a piece of Art Deco history, a showcase of natural pearls, and a tribute to the 1920s’ enduring glamour. Whether you’re a collector seeking a rare find or simply captivated by vintage jewellery, this Sautoir tells a story of artistry and elegance that transcends time.

Explore the world of 1920s jewellery, and you’ll see why pieces like this remain cherished—because they’re not just adornments, they’re legacies waiting to be passed down.