Grand Lady Kalla

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At Watches & Wonders, Vacheron Constantin unveiled The Grand Lady Kalla. It is a creation that comes to life thanks to meticulous savoir-faire: luminous, embroidered with emerald-cut 57-faceted diamonds on the watch; diamonds, Akoya pearls and onyx pearls on the pendant—a versatile piece of fine jewellery composed of 268 diamonds, weighing over 46 carats.

The close bond between Vacheron Constantin and women was formed during the Maison’s activity, which has continued uninterrupted since its foundation in 1755.

The Grand Lady Kalla timepiece adds a new chapter to this tradition. Based on the design of the emblematic Kalla launched in 1980, which is the successor to the Kallista presented in 1979, the new timepiece can be worn in different ways. A powerful tribute to transformable jewellery.

A tribute to history

In 1979, Vacheron Constantin made watchmaking history with the Kallista timepiece.

Its opulence – expressed by 130 carats of diamonds – was matched only by the innovative design of Raymond Moretti, who created a geometric rivière starting from a solid gold bar from which the watch’s 140 grams were extracted. Made in a one-off piece, it became the most expensive watch in the world.

Its heirs were no less spectacular, as evidenced by the Kalla timepiece from 1980. Also carved in a block of yellow gold and embellished with 108 emerald-cut diamonds totalling about 30 carats, it became so emblematic that it inspired a collection of the same name, whose singular creations met unanimous success.

A notable example is the Lady Kalla in white gold with satin strap, which in 2001 won the “jewel watch” award at the first Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

Nine years later, in 2010, on the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the Lady Kalla, the Lady Kalla Flamme was presented, which, with its sparkling 57-faceted diamonds, inaugurates the flame cut, designed by Vacheron Constantin and duly approved by the GIA (Gemological Institute of America).

In 2024, the Grand Lady Kalla celebrates the name that inspired it: in ancient Greek, in fact, kallista means “the most beautiful”.

The 57 facets of the emerald-cut diamonds chosen for this new creation possess crystalline clarity. Slightly tapered to reflect contemporary tastes, the dial stands out for the meticulous work of the master setter, who has embellished it with modern claws. Reduced to a minimum to make room for the hands, they are triangular on the bracelet and middle case to highlight the stones, but also pyramid-shaped to create the sparkling Maltese cross, the emblem of the Maison. The onyx and diamond sautoir necklace, and the tassels with Akoya pearls chosen for their brilliance and roundness, create a compelling dialogue between Art Deco and the 21st century.

A jewel on the wrist: Emerald-cut diamonds, Akoya pearls and onyx

A true masterpiece of Haute Joaillerie, the Grand Lady Kalla timepiece testifies to the commitment to conveying excellence that has always guided the Maison. The Maison’s expert gemologists have carefully selected at least 131 diamonds to ensure a harmonious colour, clarity and brightness match.

The extreme precision of the setting, given the sharp angles of the emerald cut, allows the stones to express their true nature; thus, the intensity of the light emitted creates a fascinating effect and makes the design particularly radiant. The art of the Maison’s jewellers is also expressed in the sautoir necklace, whose mobile ornament, set with 15 diamonds for over 12 carats, features a magnificent GIA-certified centre stone of over 2 carats. This versatile piece of jewellery can be worn on a necklace or a bracelet.

A timepiece and a tassel sautoir necklace: four original ways to wear them

The Grand Lady Kalla model, which consists of a timepiece and a sautoir necklace, is a playful and contemporary invitation to move in style from the wrist to the décolleté and vice versa. The fact that the watch can be worn in four different ways says a lot about the creativity that has distinguished the history of Vacheron Constantin for more than 250 years. This savoir-faire is clearly illustrated by women’s pendant watches, such as the 1924 model, which features a removable clasp system that allows the platinum pendant set with rubies, emeralds, onyx, and diamonds to be transformed into a brooch.

One hundred years later, the Maison quadruples this versatility, firmly inserting it into the present era. The Grand Lady Kalla model thus weaves a precious dialogue between a watch set entirely in diamonds and a sautoir necklace adorned with diamonds and Akoya pearls that contrast with onyx.

The watch can be removed from the bracelet and replaced by the
jewel of the sautoir necklace.

The latter, in turn, can accommodate the clock, reviving the elegant gestures of the early twentieth century, when ladies read the time with their fingertips, touching the necklace. To ensure a perfect match with contemporary style, the Manufacture’s master craftsmen have drawn on all their know-how: the Grand Lady Kalla timepiece transforms quickly and without tools.

From Geometry to Artistry, Vacheron Constantin’s Theme Of the Year

A Vacheron Constantin watch is much more than the sum of its parts. Starting from a sketch, a geometric drawing, and its technical extensions, a whole world of shapes, colours and textures is born. The complex mechanical engineering structures are combined with design; the meticulousness of the details gives life to grace. Artisanal intelligence ignites emotions. Based on a formal and mathematical study, Vacheron Constantin’s timepieces possess soul and elegance and represent the ultimate expression of artistic talent. Thanks to this new all-titanium model, the sporty-chic spirit of the Overseas collection fits into the theme chosen by Vacheron Constantin for 2024, highlighting how art is inspired by geometric shapes.

Questions to Sandrine Donguy, Product & Innovation Director at Vacheron Constantin

What can be said about the history of Vacheron Constantin’s jewel watches?

Over the years, Vacheron Constantin has always paid great attention to the needs of women, taking into account artistic sensibilities, aesthetic and technical trends, as well as social norms and customs. From the first women’s pocket watches at the end of the eighteenth century to contemporary wristwatches, the Maison’s heritage is a testament to its formidable ability to capture the zeitgeist and satisfy women’s desires.

Vacheron Constantin has a fascinating history of jewellery watches – brimming with creativity, innovation and expertise – dating back to 1755, the year it was founded. The Maison’s private collection includes a pocket watch from 1812 with a bezel adorned with pearls and a finely chiselled and engraved caseback. Art Nouveau was also a very creative period for the House, as evidenced by this brooch watch with pendant from 1901, embellished with diamond-set scrolls and a graceful bar. The rectangular model in platinum and diamonds with sloping angles presented in 1911 confirms the originality of Vacheron Constantin.

What about the Art Deco period?

It was an era of exuberant creativity, to which Vacheron Constantin contributed. In the 1920s, the Maison embraced the aesthetic codes of Art Deco, also known as the 1925 Style: the expression “Art Deco”, in fact, was coined after the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts, which was held in Paris in 1925.

The Savona chests on enamelled chains, which dominated at the beginning of the century, were replaced by geometric shapes and patterns. The silhouettes of timepieces freed themselves from past conventions, adopting the pure and rigorous lines of the cases, which in turn were oval or rectangular, square or carved into asymmetrical shapes, generally with stones set in two-tone variations. Art Deco was an era brimming with creativity, as can be seen by looking at the timepiece created by Vacheron Constantin in 1923, with a white gold case and a hexagonal dial set with diamonds and sapphires. These jewel watches are also flanked by more discreet models, created for women who wanted to tell the time in any situation, both in everyday life and in society. Vacheron Constantin continued to produce several pocket watches, such as the 1929 “surprise” watch in white gold with 18 cabochon jewels.

So, did gemstones become essential?
Undoubtedly. They were no longer used only to emphasize the curve of the bezel or an engraved or enamelled motif: from that moment on, they became an integral part of the decoration. The crates then became more and more discreet, serving as a backdrop for beautifully set gems, which could thus show off all their splendor. It goes without saying that the Kalla collection belongs to a similar celebration of diamonds.