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This spring, the world’s most passionate collectors and jewellery connoisseurs will set their sights on Geneva, as Phillips presents The Geneva Jewels Auction: IV on 12 May 2025 at the prestigious Hotel President Wilson.
Here, seasoned collectors will be presented with a rare convergence of investment-grade gemstones, historic provenance, and masterful artistry. In a market increasingly driven by connoisseurship and scarcity, auctions stand out as a pivotal opportunity to secure truly exceptional objects.
Unrivalled Top Lots: Colour, Clarity, and Provenance
At the pinnacle of the sale is a 53.14-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond pendant, Internally Flawless and commanding an estimate of CHF 2.15 to 3.1 million (USD 2.4 to 3.5 million). Such stones, particularly those achieving “Vivid” saturation with no internal imperfections, are exceedingly rare and highly sought after for both their beauty and their enduring value.
Complementing this is a pair of D Colour, Flawless diamond earrings, each over 10 carats and classified Type IIa — a pedigree that places them among the purest diamonds ever formed. In an investment climate where provenance and natural rarity command a premium, these diamonds offer a tangible store of value.
Coloured Gemstones: The New Frontier of Collecting
The auction underscores the growing emphasis on untreated coloured stones. Among the highlights:
A 7.10-carat Kashmir sapphire ring by Van Cleef & Arpels, unheated — an increasingly elusive combination that elevates it into the upper echelon of collectable sapphires.
A 122.77-carat unmounted Paraiba tourmaline from Mozambique, no heat — a remarkable stone from a source that has become the modern standard-bearer for neon blues.
Top-tier Burmese rubies, including a 10.59-carat gem estimated up to CHF 650,000 (USD 735,000), and a 7.37-carat Bulgari creation — both free from thermal enhancement.
For collectors focused on high-growth sectors, these untreated coloured stones offer a strong hedge, especially as premier sources like Kashmir and classic Burmese mines become depleted.
Historic Jewels: Rarity Beyond Carats
Art Deco pieces curated to celebrate the 1925 Paris Exposition provide an important historical dimension to the sale. Notable are:
A Cartier diamond brooch circa 1910, linked to the prestigious Atelier of Henri Picq, renowned for its early Art Deco craftsmanship.
A Janesich 1920s rock crystal and diamond brooch, reflecting avant-garde European design trends of the interwar years.
Adding further allure is a pair of 1934 Chaumet diamond earrings, once part of a French noble family’s marriage trousseau. Provenance of this caliber — documented, prestigious, and uninterrupted — increasingly influences hammer prices for vintage jewels.
Modern glamour is not forgotten either: a ruby, light pink diamond, and diamond ‘Serpenti’ wristwatch by Bulgari — a late 1950s icon exhibited during Bulgari’s 75th anniversary celebrations — coils its way into the lineup, emblematic of the maison’s seductive artistry.
We are delighted to present the highlights of our Geneva sale this spring, where our top lots include a magnificent Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond pendant and exquisite pair of diamond earrings. Following the outstanding results achieved for coloured gemstones in 2024, we are particularly excited to present a superb selection this season, alongside Art Deco masterpieces, and historically significant treasures. This auction celebrates extraordinary craftsmanship and provenance and we look forward to welcoming collectors and enthusiasts to our international highlight tour ahead of the auction in Geneva this May.
Benoît Repellin, Phillips’ Worldwide Head of Jewellery
A Market Stronghold
Following robust auction results in 2024, particularly for coloured stones and vintage signed pieces, Phillips positions this sale to attract discerning buyers seeking portfolio diversification into tangible luxury assets.
The global highlights tour through Hong Kong, New York, Singapore, and London will allow collectors to view and assess these exceptional lots in person — a crucial step when evaluating stones of this calibre.
Final Word
As said, ahead of the Geneva auction, these exceptional pieces will embark on a global highlights tour, making stops in Hong Kong, New York, Singapore, and London, before settling at Hotel President Wilson for viewing from 7 to 12 May. Coinciding with GemGenève, this promises to be a luminous rendezvous of collectors, dealers, and gem aficionados.
With market momentum favouring ultra-rare, untreated, and historically significant jewels, this spring’s The Geneva Jewels Auction IV offers collectors the chance to acquire pieces whose beauty is matched only by their potential for appreciation.
Auction Details:
- Auction Date: 12 May 2025, 3 PM CEST
- Viewing: 7–12 May 2025, Hotel President Wilson, Geneva
- Complete Auction Catalogue Here
Collector’s Top Picks: Geneva Jewels Auction IV
(Investment Potential Highlights)
Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond and Diamond Pendant (53.14 carats)
Grade: Fancy Vivid Yellow, Internally Flawless
Estimate: CHF 2,150,000 – 3,100,000 (USD 2,400,000 – 3,500,000)
Why It Matters:
Ultra-rare for its size, vivid saturation, and clarity. Fancy Vivid Yellow stones of this calibre are trophy assets with global demand among UHNW collectors.
Diamond Earrings (10.92 and 10.58 carats each, D Colour, Flawless, Type IIa)
Grade: D Colour, Flawless, Type IIa
Estimate: CHF 1,250,000 – 1,600,000 (USD 1,400,000 – 1,800,000)
Why It Matters:
A matched pair of purest diamonds over 10 carats is a pinnacle acquisition. Type IIa diamonds represent less than 2% of all natural diamonds.
Van Cleef & Arpels Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring (7.10 carats, No Heat)
Grade: Kashmir origin, No Heat
Estimate: CHF 880,000 – 1,325,000 (USD 1,000,000 – 1,500,000)
Why It Matters:
Untreated Kashmir sapphires are the “Holy Grail” for gemstone collectors. Their finite supply ensures ongoing appreciation.
Burmese Ruby and Diamond Ring (10.59 carats, No Heat)
Grade: Burmese origin, No Heat
Estimate: CHF 420,000 – 650,000 (USD 475,000 – 735,000)
Why It Matters:
Exceptional size and colour saturation from Burma (Myanmar) with no heat treatment — ideal long-term hold for serious gemstone investors.
Bulgari ‘Serpenti’ Ruby, Light Pink Diamond and Diamond Wristwatch (Late 1950s)
Maker: Bulgari
Estimate: CHF 240,000 – 430,000 (USD 270,000 – 485,000)
Why It Matters:
An icon of mid-century design, recently exhibited by Bulgari during their 75th anniversary. Collectable, wearable, and backed by institutional exhibition history.
Chaumet Diamond Earrings (circa 1934, Noble Provenance)
Maker: Chaumet
Estimate: CHF 35,000 – 52,000 (USD 40,000 – 60,000)
Why It Matters:
Aristocratic provenance and 1930s craftsmanship at an accessible estimate. Ideal for collectors seeking historic jewellery with traceable lineage.
Honourable Mention:
22.77-carat Mozambique Paraiba Tourmaline (No Heat)
Estimate: CHF 340,000 – 530,000 (USD 380,000 – 600,000)
Why It Matters:
Monumental size and electric colour. Mozambique Paraibas are driving the next wave of coloured gemstone appreciation.
Strategic Note for Collectors:
In today’s auction landscape, natural, untreated, origin-certified coloured stones and signed pieces with documented provenance consistently outperform broader luxury markets. Phillips’ Geneva auction offers a rare combination of these high-demand factors.