Baselworld 2015: Chanel goes complicated

As preview to Baselworld show, in March this year, Chanel unveiled exciting new watches. A full range, from the J12 to the Mademoiselle Privé and the Première Collections, which unite high jewellery craftmanships to the most outstanding mechanical movements, with delicate pastel fashion accents.

Talking business, the J12 family is then enriched by the J12 Skeleton Flying Tourbillon.

Chanel J12 Skeleton Open Worked Flying Tourbillon.
Chanel J12 Skeleton Open Worked Flying Tourbillon. Edition limited to 20 pieces.

This model follows the trend, already strongly witnessed at SIHH in Geneva last January, of the skeleton watches, and it features a tourbillon set without an upper bridge, which gives the impression of a weightless mouvement – even more so as it is stylized as a precious, diamond-dusted comet. The skeleton structure is however very subtle and elegant – thanks to the black matte high-tech ceramic case effect – and it offers just a glimpse of the mouvement through the finely perforated dial.

The J12 Skeleton Open Worked Flying Tourbillon “Comète” is set with 30 diamonds, and it is the results of the close collaboration between Chanel and the Swiss master watchmakers Renaud & Papi (APRP SA).

Others, more “in fashion” additions to the J12 family are a new version of the white J12 which, for the first time since its creation, dares soft powder pastel colours on its bezel (light blue, soft pink and green, in 33 and 38mm case, edition limited to 1200 pieces), and the J12-G.10, a precious adaptation of the military NATO strap to feminine watchmaking (the watch name coming from the form used to order this legendary military strap), with a titanium high-tech ceramic and steel case.

The flying tourbillon is also enriching the Première Openwork Flying Tourbillon, the entrance door to the world of high watchmaking complications.

Chanel Première Openwork Flying Tourbillon.
Chanel Première Openwork Flying Tourbillon. Edition limited to 12 pieces.

Same as for the J12 Flying Skeleton Tourbillon, the Première Openwork Flying Tourbillon is graced with a stylized camellia (the Maison’s cherished symbol, set with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds), while the heart of the flying tourbillon beats behind its finely perforated design – always in collaboration with Renaud & Papi.

Premiäre_Openwork_Flying_Tourbillon_side_FB
Chanel Première Openwork Flying Tourbillon – side view to appreciate the diamond settings.

The intense black of the dial and of the satin strap forms an entrancing contrast with the brilliance of the set diamonds – numbers are brilliant, too: 42 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, 47 baguette-cut diamonds on the white gold case, 17 brilliant-cut diamonds on the white gold hands, 19 brilliant-cut diamonds on the tourbillon cabochon, 16 baguette-cut diamonds and 11 brilliant-cut diamonds on the white gold crown and, finally, 30 brilliant-cut diamonds on the white gold double folding buckle. A high jewellery watch in its own right.

Speaking of high jewellery watches, the Mademoiselle Privé Collection unveils new enchanting unique pieces: the Mademoiselle Coromandel Dials, and the Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Mother of Pearl.

I wrote Coromandel Dial with an “s” as it is about two unique pieces, manufactured in Switzerland, beautified by dials presenting a miniature design produced using the technic of glyptic and sculpted gold. The round cases, in white or beige 18k gold, sparkle with snow-set diamonds.

Closing in total Beauty, here is the Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Dial, another unique piece which dial is set with 330 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.02 carats) and camellia in mother-of-pearl marquetry (hence the name).

Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Dial. 18k white gold case set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (1 ct); onyx cabochon crown; black satin bracelet; Ardillon buckle in 18k white gold set with 80 brilliant-cut diamonds; self-winding mouvement. Unique piece.
Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Dial. 18k white gold case set with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (1 ct); onyx cabochon crown; black satin bracelet; Ardillon buckle in 18k white gold set with 80 brilliant-cut diamonds; self-winding mouvement. Unique piece.

 

Enjoy the refinement and the brilliance. CC

Post by Claudia Carletti, Jewellery Through Time. Material courtesy of Chanel Press Office.

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