Cartier High Jewellery Watches Collection

On the occasion of SIHH 25th anniversary, Cartier has once again been able to enchant the public by presenting and showcasing in its booth (the biggest at the Salon) spectacular high jewellery watches.

-SIHH2015-CAR0029
© SIHH 2015
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© SIHH 2015

A collection of unique pieces characterized by striking designs, spectacular gem-setting and artisanal techniques, revealing Cartier’s unsurpassed style and craftsmanship.

At the centre of Cartier’s booth, therefore of the stage, was the magnificent Ballon Bleu de Cartier Serti Vibrant , a work of art in terms of gem setting, as the dial is showing a carpet of diamonds set en tremblant, a technique which allows the stones on the dial of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch to shimmer and glow at the minimum movement, as you will see in the captivating video below:

 

 

Ballon Bleu vibrant serti
Ballon de Cartier Serti Vibrant watch, 42 mm, Manufacture manual winding mechanical movement, caliber 430 MC. Rhodiumized 18K white gold case set with 210 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 3.38 carats, fluted crown set with a sapphire cabochon. 18K white gold NAC-treated dial set with 123 vibrant, brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 3.46 carats. Blued-steel sword-shaped hands. Rhodiumized 18K white gold bracelet set with 985 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 8.82 carats. Wrist size 175 mm. Case thickness: 14.05 mm. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 meters). Limited edition of 20 individually numbered pieces.

 

Cartier High Jewellery Watch collection has la Panthère as a prominent protagonist: a intense homage to the Maison’s icon, as 2014 was its 100th anniversary, an undisputed reign which takes the whole alphabet to narrate.

Louis Cartier was a pioneer in taming the legendary creature, who first leapt into the world of Cartier in 1914, and his associate Jeanne Toussaint went on to make magnificent use of the icon. The panther has since inspired bracelets, brooches, earrings, long necklaces and watches in a multi-faceted collection that in turn appears threatening, haughty and lustful.

Panthère Captive de Cartier Watch
Panthère Captive de Cartier watch, quartz movement. Rhodiumized 18K white gold case set with 136 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 1.04 carats, rhodiumized 18K white gold panther set with 250 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 1.53 carats, eyes set with pear-shaped emeralds, onyx nose.
Panthère Captive de Cartier Watch 2
Polished steel winding stem set with a titanium cabochon, rhodiumized 18K white gold dial set with 123 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 0.57 carats, rhodiumized steel sword-shaped hands, black semi-matte alligator skin strap, 10 mm double adjustable folding rhodiumized 18K white gold buckle set with 24 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 0.30 carats. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 meters).

 

Brought to life with the highest standards of Fine Watchmaking tradition, the timepieces for the 2015 edition reveal the extensive range of Cartier creativity and expertise. From the Cartier Manufacture at la Chaux-de-Fonds, the Cartier “Poinçon de Genève” Workshops or the Maison des Métiers d’Art, this year’s collection continues the Maison’s legacy of exhibiting excellence and innovation.

Rêves de Panthères watch, 42.75 mm, Manufacture self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 9916 MC. Rhodiumized 18K white gold case set with 315 brilliant-cut diamonds and a beaded crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond totaling 5.73 carats. Rhodiumized 18K white gold case set with 279 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 0.99 carats, rhodiumized 18K white gold panthers, black lacquer spots. Blued-steel sword-shaped hand.
Rêves de Panthères watch, 42.75 mm, Manufacture self-winding mechanical movement, caliber 9916 MC. Rhodiumized 18K white gold case set with 315 brilliant-cut diamonds and a beaded crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond totaling 5.73 carats. Rhodiumized 18K white gold case set with 279 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 0.99 carats, rhodiumized 18K white gold panthers, black lacquer spots. Blued-steel sword-shaped hand.
Rhodiumized 18K white gold bracelet set with 564 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 15.59 carats. Day/Night complication. Individually numbered movement consisting of 240 parts including 36 jewels. Movement diameter: 11 1/2 lines (i.e. 25.60 mm), movement thickness: 8.29 mm, power reserve approx. 48 hours. Sapphire case back. Case thickness: 11.75 mm. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 meters). Numbered edition.
Rhodiumized 18K white gold bracelet set with 564 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 15.59 carats. Day/Night complication. Individually numbered movement consisting of 240 parts including 36 jewels. Movement diameter: 11 1/2 lines (i.e. 25.60 mm), movement thickness: 8.29 mm, power reserve approx. 48 hours. Sapphire case back. Case thickness: 11.75 mm. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 meters). Numbered edition.

The coming together of two domains of exceptional expertise within the Maison Cartier gives life to creative pieces, where stones and precious metals feature alongside the most spectacular of mechanisms. This gives life to the astonishing High Jewellery Panthère Impériale visible hour Watch:

High Jewellery Panthère Impériale visible hour watch. 18K yellow gold case and bracelet set with 278 brilliant-cut light orange diamonds totalling 3.74 carats, 255 brilliant-cut orange diamonds totalling 3.15 carats, 211 brilliant-cut light yellow diamonds totalling 2.49 carats, 69 brilliant-cut brown diamonds totalling 0.71 carats and 868 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 12.77 carats, 220 onyx motifs totalling 26.01 carats.
High Jewellery Panthère Impériale visible hour watch. 18K yellow gold case and bracelet set with 278 brilliant-cut light orange diamonds totalling 3.74 carats, 255 brilliant-cut orange diamonds totalling 3.15 carats, 211 brilliant-cut light yellow diamonds totalling 2.49 carats, 69 brilliant-cut brown diamonds totalling 0.71 carats and 868 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 12.77 carats, 220 onyx motifs totalling 26.01 carats.
Manufacture manual winding mechanical movement, calibre 101 MC.  Silvered translucent lacquered sunray effect dial, square-shaped diamond marker at 12 o'clock, rhodium-finish steel sword-shaped hands. Unique piece.
Manufacture manual winding mechanical movement, calibre 101 MC. Silvered translucent lacquered sunray effect dial, square-shaped diamond marker at 12 o’clock, rhodium-finish steel sword-shaped hands. Unique piece.

Last but not the least, among all the marvels presented by this fabulous section, here is my favourite, Les Indomptables de Cartier Panther Decor Watch, graciously adorned of a detachable brooch:

Les Indomptables de Cartier panther décor brooch watch, quartz movement. Rhodium-finish 18K white gold set with 212 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 2.67 carats, rhodium-finish 18K white gold panther décor brooch and 18K pink gold foliage set with 472 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 2.08 carats, eyes set with pear-shaped emeralds, black enamel nose, ears and spots, rhodium-finish 18K white gold dial set with 85 diamonds totalling 0.21 carats and black enamel, leaves and branches motif in enamelled miniature painting, rhodium-finish steel sword-shaped hands, rhodium-finish 18K white gold bracelet set with 594 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 16.73 carats. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 meters). Limited edition of 5 individually numbered pieces.
Les Indomptables de Cartier panther décor brooch watch, quartz movement. Rhodium-finish 18K white gold set with 212 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 2.67 carats, rhodium-finish 18K white gold panther décor brooch and 18K pink gold foliage set with 472 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 2.08 carats, eyes set with pear-shaped emeralds, black enamel nose, ears and spots, rhodium-finish 18K white gold dial set with 85 diamonds totalling 0.21 carats and black enamel, leaves and branches motif in enamelled miniature painting, rhodium-finish steel sword-shaped hands, rhodium-finish 18K white gold bracelet set with 594 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 16.73 carats. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 meters). Limited edition of 5 individually numbered pieces.

 

 

Another theme is represented by the “Cartier d’Art” collection, which showcases the rare jewellery-making techniques of enamelling, engraving, and wood and mother-of-pearl marquetry. The spectacular dials and extravagant curves of “Cartier d’Art” timepieces cultivate rare talents and a unique sense of inspiration.

Here is the Cartier d’Art Ronde Louis Cartier XL, a refined example of the revived filigree technique, which we had the pleasure of discovering in a recently published post:

Cartier d'Art Ronde Louis Cartier XL watch, Manufacture manual winding mechanical movement, calibre 430 MC. 18K yellow gold case set with 58 brilliant-cut diamonds and a beaded crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond totalling 1.19 carats, 18K yellow gold dial set with 120 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.28 carats, 22K yellow gold and 950‰ platinum filigree panthers motif, eyes set with pear-shaped emeralds, black lacquer spots and nose, dark blue lacquer and gold-coloured specks, gold-finish steel apple-shaped hands, white semi-matt alligator skin strap, 18 mm double adjustable folding 18K yellow gold buckle set with 43 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.42 carats. Case thickness: 8 mm. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres). Limited edition of 20 individually numbered pieces.
Cartier d’Art Ronde Louis Cartier XL watch, Manufacture manual winding mechanical movement, calibre 430 MC. 18K yellow gold case set with 58 brilliant-cut diamonds and a beaded crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond totalling 1.19 carats, 18K yellow gold dial set with 120 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.28 carats, 22K yellow gold and 950‰ platinum filigree panthers motif, eyes set with pear-shaped emeralds, black lacquer spots and nose, dark blue lacquer and gold-coloured specks, gold-finish steel apple-shaped hands, white semi-matt alligator skin strap, 18 mm double adjustable folding 18K yellow gold buckle set with 43 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.42 carats. Case thickness: 8 mm. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres). Limited edition of 20 individually numbered pieces.

Additional inspiration coming from the “tutti-frutti” style, and a rejuvenated Art Deco stylization complete the design spectrum of this faboulous ensemble.

High Jewellery visible hour watch, quartz movement. Rhodium-finish 18K white gold case and bracelet set with 29 sapphires engraved with a leaf motif totalling 64.21 carats, 23 emeralds engraved with a leaf motif totalling 32.39 carats, 9 gadrooned ruby beads totalling 7.48 carats, 56 square-shaped diamonds totalling 1.80 carats and 667 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 7.52 carats, rhodium-finish 18K white gold dial set with 156 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.24 carats, rectangular-shaped emerald marker of 0.02 carats at 12 o'clock, rhodium-finish 18K white gold sword-shaped hands. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres). Unique piece.
High Jewellery visible hour watch, quartz movement. Rhodium-finish 18K white gold case and bracelet set with 29 sapphires engraved with a leaf motif totalling 64.21 carats, 23 emeralds engraved with a leaf motif totalling 32.39 carats, 9 gadrooned ruby beads totalling 7.48 carats, 56 square-shaped diamonds totalling 1.80 carats and 667 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 7.52 carats, rhodium-finish 18K white gold dial set with 156 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.24 carats, rectangular-shaped emerald marker of 0.02 carats at 12 o’clock, rhodium-finish 18K white gold sword-shaped hands. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres). Unique piece.
High Jewellery secret hour watch, quartz movement. Rhodium-finish 18K white gold case and bracelet set with an oval-shaped opal of 51.13 carats, 827 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 22.49 carats and 51 baguette-cut diamonds totalling 3.71 carats.
High Jewellery secret hour watch, quartz movement. Rhodium-finish 18K white gold case and bracelet set with an oval-shaped opal of 51.13 carats, 827 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 22.49 carats and 51 baguette-cut diamonds totalling 3.71 carats.
Silvered translucent lacquered sun-ray effect dial, square-shaped diamond hour marker at 12 o'clock, rhodium-finish 18K yellow gold sword-shaped hands. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres). Unique piece.
Silvered translucent lacquered sun-ray effect dial, square-shaped diamond hour marker at 12 o’clock, rhodium-finish 18K yellow gold sword-shaped hands. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres). Unique piece.
Purple High Jewellery secret watch, quartz movement. Rhodium-finish 18K white gold case and bracelet set with a faceted cushion-shaped amethyst of 62.84 carats, 4 cabochon-cut amethysts totalling 8.50 carats, 6 “clou de Paris” motif onyx totalling 1.47 carats, 1201 onyx beads totalling 74.06 carats, 2 lozenge-shaped diamonds totalling 0.24 carats, 2 square-shaped diamonds totalling 0.08 carats and 1080 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 9.06 carats.
Purple High Jewellery secret watch, quartz movement. Rhodium-finish 18K white gold case and bracelet set with a faceted cushion-shaped amethyst of 62.84 carats, 4 cabochon-cut amethysts totalling 8.50 carats, 6 “clou de Paris” motif onyx totalling 1.47 carats, 1201 onyx beads totalling 74.06 carats, 2 lozenge-shaped diamonds totalling 0.24 carats, 2 square-shaped diamonds totalling 0.08 carats and 1080 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 9.06 carats.
Silvered translucent lacquered sunray effect dial, square-shaped diamond hour marker at 12 o'clock, rhodium-finish 18K white gold sword-shaped hands. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres). Unique piece.
Silvered translucent lacquered sunray effect dial, square-shaped diamond hour marker at 12 o’clock, rhodium-finish 18K white gold sword-shaped hands. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres). Unique piece.

As final touch, a presence from Cartier’s bestiaire with the Sobek High Jewellery visible hour watch, featuring a (very) sweet crocodile:

Sobek High Jewellery visible hour watch, quartz movement. Rhodium-finish 18K white gold case and bracelet set with 1369 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 18.07 carats and a cabochon-cut emerald of 0.18 carats.
Sobek High Jewellery visible hour watch, quartz movement. Rhodium-finish 18K white gold case and bracelet set with 1369 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 18.07 carats and a cabochon-cut emerald of 0.18 carats.
Rhodium-finish 18K white gold dial set with 77 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.21 carats, brilliant-cut diamond hour marker of 0.002 carts. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres). Wrist size: 160 mm. Unique piece.
Rhodium-finish 18K white gold dial set with 77 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.21 carats, brilliant-cut diamond hour marker of 0.002 carts. Water-resistant to 3 bar (approx. 30 metres). Wrist size: 160 mm. Unique piece.

 

Ladies and Gentlemen, welcome to Cartier High Jewellery Watches collection, as presented at the 25th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie: when the highest of high jewellery and high watchmaking unite in marvels.

 

Post edited by Claudia Carletti, Jewellery Through Time. Material courtesy of Cartier.

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